Vouvray
Grower
Profiles
Domaine
Huet
Pinguet and Hwang
Tasting
Notes - 2000 to 2008
The
notes for the vintages between 2004 and 2011 are recent and
comprehensive. An updated appraisal of the other vintages this decade will
be updated in due course.
2000 VINTAGE
Very delicate and faint mousse, consistent with the
style. The appearance is now deepening and the colour is distinctly
yellow. The nose is a lovely, pure, chalky mineral expression with a
delicate apple and honeycomb aroma behind. Dry on entry, with more chalky
textured minerality. Delicate, but persistent, there are flavours of baked
apple and quince. The overlying sensation on the finish of the chalky
character, as if the wine has taken up the very soul of the caves in which
it was aged. Drinking well now, but can comfortably age much further.
10g/l dosage. (07/09)
2000
Le Mont Demi-Sec
Mid
depth. This appears mature. The nose is very open and classic, with some
terpene and prtol hints. Floral, with hints of white flowers suggesting
this wine is probably at its prime, although unlikely to fall over any
time soon. This is old fashioned Vouvray, with typical 'wet dog' or 'wet
wool' characters. The wine has decent balance, although the acidity
shows a little on the finish. Less distinguished, although drinking well
now. 18g/l residual sugar. (09/09)
2001 VINTAGE
2001
Vouvray Pétillant Brut
Bottled September 2002 and (this particular example)
degorged June 2008. Almost six years on its lees. Fine beading, followed
by a lovely true and proper nose. Mid-full on entry with the 15g/l dosage
showing slightly at this stage. There is a good sense of minerality to the
finish. (07/08)
Polished.
Mid-pale yellow-green. Attractive, classic nose. Very clean and fresh.
Complex and light and lifted in style. Dry on entry with a taut minerality
and raised acidity. Faintly pithy but with good structure and length. It
still appears very fresh. This is not a top sec vintage for Huet,
but is credible and in good condition. It is drinking well now but
probably won't improve. Decent. 6g/l. (01/10)
Pale
appearance. Green hints. This is a true expression of demi-sec Vouvray, with notes of spent match. Excellent focus, this
is open and complex on both the nose and palate. Very clean, lively and
fresh with juicy acidity. This is still very youthful, but is accessible
now. This is a classic demi-sec with excellent balance. Hints of celery
salt on both the nose and palate. Linear. Probably the best demi-sec
vintage generally available for current drinking although this will
continue to evolve over the next couple of decades. Whilst 2001 might be a
weak vintage for sec it is a great year for demi-sec. (12.5%
alcohol, 22 g/l rs). (01/10)
Clear, but not bright. The
wine is now beginning to pick up some colour. Mid depth, pale gold. The
nose is now starting to show some maturity, with some of the
characteristic dry, mouldy orange skin that is characteristic through the
Loire this vintage. It’s also pithy on the nose; more Savennières than
Vouvray. The wine is certainly more oxidative than one expects of the Huet
style. There is a richness on entry, with the wine building well through
the palate. There is a deftness on the palate and shows the freshness and
refinement that one would expect of the appellation, and Huet in
particular. Good length and minerality. This is now in its early adult life, and
could be expected to mature for another decade at least. It certainly
won’t fall apart. (12.77% alcohol, 23g/l rs). (01/10)
2001
Le Clos du Bourg Moëlleux
Polished. Deep yellow-gold. Rich and open nose with hints of clove and
spice with a sense that there is much more to give. The broad palate is
much richer and open than the nose suggests. Very fresh and juicy acidity
making the wine appear almost dry on the finish. The wine is still very
unready and with a wealth of other sweet wine vintages available at
present it would be best to leave this to mature further. It's evolution
needs to be monitored over the coming years. Backward. (01/10)
The
most recent tasting notes date back to September 2008 when the wines were
tasted (blind) for The World of Fine Wine magazine.
Pale appearance. Very attractive honey and citrus nose
with lots of honeycomb. Complex now. Lovely on entry. Very clean and
fresh. Good structure and length, although it is still quite tight on the
palate. Approachable, but will certainly keep. 10g/l dosage. (01/07)
2002
Vouvray Pétillant
This vintage saw a new departure for Huet in the production of
sparkling wines. Initially viewed as an experiment, the idea was to
produce pétillant using the wines own natural sugar to perform the second
fermentation. This was the perfect vintage to work with, since the
potential alcohol was slightly higher and the vintage was marked by good
levels of malic acid within the fruit. One particular tank with a slightly
elevated alcohol and acidity was identified from a relatively small tank
and the wine was committed to bottle in the spring of 2003. Both Noël and
Jean-Bernard monitored the evolution of the wine over a period of several
years and were impressed with how the wine was developing. After more than
seven years sur latte, it was decided, in the autumn of 2010, that
the time had come for degorging, but rather than using either a liqueur
d'expédition or an older Moëlleux, as is usual at Huet, the decision
was made to release the wine without any dosage, and the wine was topped
with some Le Mont Sec 2008 instead. The resulting wine has just 2 grams of
residual sugar, 13.5% alcohol and just over four bars of pressure, so
slightly higher than a typical Pétillant. It can be distinguished
from the standard release due to its slightly squatter bottle shape (along
with the fact that it is labeled Réserve...). Huet still view this
style of wine as 'an experiment in progress' and we are only likely ever
to see a (possible) successor from the 2009 vintage - in around
2016.
The wine itself does have more vivre than a standard Pétillant, notably drier, more vinous with firm acidity and a sense of real minerality. The nose is already showing some signs of complexity behind the fruit, whilst the palate has a degree of austerity that makes it as suitable for the table as much as an aperitif. It is clearly very young and will only benefit with time in bottle. It reminds me, in the best possible way, of my early days of drinking Vouvray in the early 1980s, when the acidity used to dominate the core of the wine. This is serious stuff and deserves to be in the cellar of the most discerning Vouvray lovers cellar. Exceptional - and limited. (07/11)
Bright.
Mid-depth. Distinct green hints. Very pure, mineral, classic,
old-fashioned Vouvray nose. Mineral, with baked apple and cinnamon. Lovely
on entry. Very fresh, showing green apple flavours. This is taut and
linear but is accessible now, showing the quality and potential for
further maturation. Juicy acidity. This would really benefit from another
decade in bottle. 13g/l. (09/08)
Polished.
Mid-depth with distinct hints of green. Herbal and faintly smoky, this is
quite restrained and backward at present. There are very faint aromas of
the honeycomb and baked apples that will appear over time. There is great
focus and linearity on entry. This is pure and fine but still in its
adolescence. The component parts are all there, but it needs another
decade to harmonise. This is classic Vouvray from a top producer in a
great vintage. 21g/l. (09/08)
The
first release of an experimental cuvée from ungrafted vines with cuttings
taken from
Pale. Green hints, The nose is pretty closed and quite
old fashioned with characters of wet-wool and flint. Despite the sweetness
on entry, the overwhelming impression here is of the striking and slightly
aggressive malic acid. The finish too is a touch phenolic with the wine
lacking refinement. Although it may come into balance in future, it is
somewhat unknit now but will remain a slightly more rustic expression of
the appellation. 37g/l. (09/08)
Mid-full bright yellow-straw. This is something of an
old fashioned nose of wet hay or straw and distinctly rustic in style. The
wine lacks some zest and life and appears a little dried out. The palate
is cleaner and zestier but has a quite unknit and aggressive acidity. The
wine is balanced but is less fine and remains rustic. Although it lacks
refinement, the acidity may soften with time. 53g/l. (09/08)
Polished. Mid-depth. Distinct yellow-gold. Quite tight
on the nose and not very expressive at present. There are some
quintessential aromas of quince and honeycomb, but this is backward and
showing very little. The palate is richer and well textured and much more
open. There is great structure and balance to cut through the striking
acidity, with classic flavours of apple and quince, but this needs time.
It is currently in a state of spotty adolescence and needs another decade
or so to develop into a mature adult. Very promising, though. 61g/l.
(09/08)
Polished.
Mid-depth. Yellow-orange. The nose here is very subdued here at present
but indicates the potential to come. The palate is rich and fine and
distinguished by striking acidity that is both malic and tartaric in its
makeup. There are flavours of star-fruit here, with citrus and pineapple.
This is still very closed and immature and not obviously from botrytised
fruit, but is nonetheless refined. The acidity on the finish is immense
and incredibly fresh, suggesting that this wine has a very long life ahead
of it. 115g/l. (09/08)
2003 VINTAGE
More like a sec-tendre. Light,
estery nose with some apples behind. Fresh and clean and not particularly
concentrated. A good, commercial effort in a bizarre vintage. 10g/l
(02/04)
Very
clean, restrained apple nose. Very rich on the palate, but with good
balance and it holds its (13.28% alcohol) well. Good fresh acidity, yet
despite the high (29g/l) residual sugar it still tastes like a demi-sec. (02/04)
Typical
Very
pure with apples and honeycomb on the nose and palate. Still tight and
restrained, but lovely structure and exquisite balance. Unusually, this
wine went through 20% malolactic fermentation. 75g/l (02/04)
Forward
and primary esters of pear. Very delicate with a fine thread of balancing
acidity. Long, ripe and exotic. Delicious and not obviously sweet. 65g/l
(02/04)
Tight
and backward nose, but with apples and honey showing. Pain aux Raisins.
More obviously sweet, but retains excellent balance and is more
concentrated. Ripe, crème brulée palate. Exotic to finish with excellent
length. The favourite wine of the vintage for Noël and myself. 124g/l
(02/04)
Harvested at an impressive one hectolitre per hectare… This is a berry
selection from all three vineyards, but mainly Le Clos du Bourg where
there was a little botrytis. Confit and marmalade nose. Very concentrated
palate with great weight and elegance. Fresh, with citrus, apricots and
kumquats. Very impressive. 226g/l (02/04)
2004 Le Haut Lieu Sec
2004 Le Mont Sec
2004 Le Clos du Bourg Sec
2005 VINTAGE
The
most recent tasting notes date back to September 2008 when the wines were
tasted (blind) for The World of Fine Wine magazine.
This
is a classic example of the Huet style, with delicacy,
finesse and balance. It’s very pure, exhibiting great Chenin character,
compunded with flavours of hazelnuts. The dosage wine comes from a 2002
vintage moëlleux. 7g/l rs. (06/09)
From
90% dried berries, along with some very ripe and soft ones. Polished.
Mid-depth with distinct green hints. Rich and rounded on the nose. This is
classic ‘struck-match’ Vouvray. Delicate, but incredibly complex.
Quince, honeycomb and bruised apple mingle with chalk and flint-like
minerality. This is extremely refined. The palate shows immediate
sweetness, richness and concentration and is surprisingly forward, but has
so much more to offer, with aromas on the nose echoed on the palate. This
is a top example from a top grower in a great vintage – and a wine that
can be expected to evolve over a lifetime. 83g/l (09/08)
2006 VINTAGE
Polished. Mid-pale with green hints. Terpine-like nose,
which is broad but currently very restrained and closed. The impression on
entry is of a wine that is bone dry and austere, but with good
concentration and structure. This is still very primary and closed.
Powerful finish. This really needs to be laid down for a few years. 5,000
bottles produced. 8g/l. (02/09)
Bright. Pale appearance. Celery salt and saline
character to the nose with a strong minerality behind. It shows greater
density that Le Haut Lieu. This is typical of a young Le Mont in that it
is firmly closed up and still pretty primary and unevolved. The palate is
a little hollow at present, with the acidity carrying the finish, but will
hopefully fill out over time. Needs time. 11,000 bottles produced. 6g/l.
(07/08)
2007 VINTAGE
If 2008 is a defining vintage for demi-sec, then 2007 is very much a year for sec. These notes for the six wines produced date from February 2009
after the wines had spent eight months in bottle.
The first
degorging of this wine occurred at the end of 2011. Light and creamy nose.
Still a little unresolved and needs time to settle. The palate is better
and consistent to the house style. Crunchy acidity, firm, with good
structure and length. Chalky. Good, but would benefit with time in bottle
(02/12)
2007
Le Haut Lieu Sec
Polished.
Mid-pale. Green hints. Attractive and open nose with faint aromas of baked
apple, cinnamon and cloves. Mid-weight with good richness on entry. Nicely
rounded, but elegant and delicate with a good mineral finish. The wine
flatters for such a young vintage. Open and accessible and for drinking
now and over the next decade. 20,000 bottles produced. 8g/l. (02/09)
Polished.
Mid depth and distinct green to the rim. Clean, aromatic and high toned
nose with plenty of character. For
Polished.
Pale green hints. Very clean, pure and refined on the nose and already
open and inviting. Powerful on entry, the palate is more restrained and
less giving at present. I imagine this is now beginning to close up. This
is a riper style with more concentration and needs to be drunk after Le
Haut Lieu. Very good potential, but needs to be given time to enter its
second age. 15,000 bottles produced. 7g/l (02/09)
Bright. Mid
depth. Green hints. Lovely open and inviting nose with exotic and tropical
fruits: pineapple and quince. Rich and broad on entry with bright acidity
shining through the wine. Good chalky texture and builds well on the
palate to a powerful finish. This is very open and approachable now and
has a fine line and real focus. Great balance and a prickle of CO2 just
help’s to lift the freshness. 20,000 bottles produced. 22g/l. (02/09)
Deeper
appearance with green hints. Closed and giving nothing away. Very clean
and pure with great stony minerality behind. Drier and more austere than
Le Haut Lieu. Linear and fine, it shows its class even though it is
backward and unapproachable at present. Very serious with great potential.
Drink after Le Haut Lieu and, at this rate, the 2008s. 17,000 bottles produced. 20g/l. (02/09)
There was
very little botrytis in 2007, so this is mainly passerillage.
Polished. Mid-depth with green hints. Very clean on the nose, if a little
backward. The palate is more open, with flavours of baked apples,
liquorish and spice. There is a great thread of acidity through the wine
and belies its 47g/l of residual sugar. Linear, well textured with a
persistent finish. It’s very characteristic of the vintage with the
thread of malic acidity running through the wine. This still has plenty to
give. 7,000 bottles produced. 50g/l. (02/09)
2008 VINTAGE
Lovely
ripe, open nose. Very rich for Huet and for the category. This is
distinctly sec-tendre. Immediate
and open on entry. Primary, but with classic Vouvray-Chenin aromas and
flavours. Lots of apples and pears and a juicy, malic acidity on the
finish. Mineral and chalky textured. This is already open and delicious,
but has a good two decades of potential ageing ahead of it. Excellent.
13,000 bottles produced. 15g/l (06/09)
2009 VINTAGE
After
the turbulent conditions of the 2008 growing season, normal business was
resumed this vintage.
2009 Le
Haut Lieu Sec
Currently
primary and neutral on the nose (as is normal post bottling), but this is
lovely on entry to the palate; juicy, with good focus even if it is still
very closed. There is a hint of residual sugar on the mid palate, but it finishes dry and mineral on the finish. Needs time, but this will evolve
into a classic Huet Sec. (06/10)
This
has closed up on bottling. It was already lush and exotic
post-fermentation at the end of January, but is now very shy on the nose.
The palate shows greater richness and texture which helps it display its
class. Serious, but needs time- more time than Le Haut Lieu – before it
will be at its best. (06/10)
2010
VINTAGE
A complex vintage that delivered very good, sound sec and
Pétillant.
Le
Haut Lieu Sec 2010
Bottled 12th April and tasted the day after.
Clean, light fresh and still full of CO2 and fermentation esters. This is
pretty closed as one would expect at this point. Good texture on entry
with good focus and a proper malic expression. Vinous and sulking a little
post-mis. This will be an early
drinking, light and friendly style. Around 40,000 bottles. 8g/l residual
sugar/12.7% alcohol.
Given the tiny quantity available, French clients were offered first option to secure some at the cellar’s portes ouvertes events during the spring and summer 2011. The
2011
VINTAGE
Another difficult vintage, producing much needed sec and
Pétillant. The wines share the same freshness and precision of the 2010
vintage. The tasting notes below date from early February 2012 when the
wines were still in tank.
Le
Haut Lieu Sec 2011
Quiet nose, but with good breadth to the palate. Well
textured; clean and crisp although this appears riper and sweeter that the
7g/l residual sugar suggests. Immediately approachable, the acidity
appears a little low, which is in contrast to the analysis which shows the
wine having the highest total acidity of any of the three sec wines
produced this vintage. 13% alcohol. (02/12) TANK SAMPLE
This has more character and personality on the nose to Le
Haut Lieu. On another level of quality. Clean, fresh, crisp and distinctly
mineral with a persistent thread of malic acid on the finish. This is
Noël Pinguet's favourite wine of the vintage. 8g/l residual sugar/13.5% alcohol.
(02/12).
Clean
and precise on the nose with some classic youthful malic acid notes.
Linear on entry with firm acidity (at 5.7g/l it's slightly higher than Le
Clos du Bourg). Crisp on the finish and appears drier than the 8g/l of residual sugar indicated on the analysis. Juicy,
and very long; for me, this is the wine
of the vintage. 13.5% alcohol. (02/12). TANK SAMPLE
Quiet
nose. Well textured palate that shows some ripeness. Noticeable acidity on
the front palate but currently falls a little flat on the finish. Good,
mineral edge to the finish. Something of a token effort with around 5,500
bottles produced. 23g/l residual sugar/ 13.7% alcohol. (02/12). TANK SAMPLE
Delicate, attractive, bruised apple nose. Clean and fresh
on entry that builds well. Delicate; it's the acidity that carries
structure with the wine appearing almost dry on the finish. Crisp, with
almost a Riesling-like focus. Around 2,400 bottles produced. 70g/l residual
sugar/13.2% alcohol. (02/12).
Domaine Huet
L’Echansonne
11/13 rue de la Croix Buisée
T: + 33 2 47 52 78 87
F: + 33 2 47 52 66 74
contact@huet-echansonne.com
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