Vouvray
Grower
Profiles
Domaine
Huet
Tasting
Notes - 1959 to 1999
The
majority of the notes on the ancient vintages were compiled numerous
visits to the domaine between September 2002 to February 2010. Some of the
wines had never been tasted by Noël himself, and on couple of occasions
there was some impromptu reclassification, where wines didn’t appear to
conform to the original cellar notes.
1961 Le Clos de Bourg Sec
(reconditioned
cork)
Whilst
some sweet wines were made, 1961 is a quintessential vintage for Demi-Sec.
Harvesting commenced on 9th October. Much
more evolved than other wines of the vintage. Polished, deep,
orange/bronze. Not very expressive and quite simple. Some caramel and
mushroooms behind. Dry and stony, also a bit unclean and dull. This is not
the best expression of the vintage and also lacks a sense of origin. Short
finish. Atypical. Needs drinking. (07/06)
Bright.
Pale yellow/green. Lovely mineral, gunflint and spent match characters
adding to the complexity. This is still very fresh with some mature
Sauvignon-like flavours. The palate is sweeter than the nose suggests. It
builds well, with good structure and concentration. The finish is dry,
delicate and mineral. This is a complex wine that continues to evolve in
the glass. It is still youthful and can be expec
Bright.
Very deep orange/bronze. Good graduation. Green hints to rim. Delicate
caramel and toffee nose. Not desperately complex; a little monotone,
although still very much alive. Dry and a little simple on the palate.
Some toffee apple character. The acidity is still very fresh, but it is
likely to fall apart quite quickly. Its deep appearance is due more to age
than botrytis. Very gentle with a faint caramel finish. ‘A traditional
style of Vouvray moëlleux’
– Noël. (08/04)
Mid-full orange/bronze. This shows some maturity to the nose. Quite simple
and with a marzipan aroma. The palate is slightly fresher and will hold,
but the wine is clumsy and lacks freshness, acidity and overall
refinement. A
bit flabby. (07/06)
Polished.
Mid-full. Yellow/gold, with hints of green. Delicate, restrained and
slightly vegetal nose. Appears tight and suggests it still has more to
give. Excellent balance, palate texture and focus with a ripe mouth feel.
More like a demi-sec. Builds
well to a full, intense finish. This is still very useful and fresh. It
could be expec
Like 1961, this remains a great vintage for drier styles rather than Moelleux.
The harvest commenced on the 18th October. Deep appearance with
no obvious mousse. This looks a bit tired and maderised on the nose with a
hint of goats cheese. The palate is better with a fresh and fine mousse.
Honeycomb. This is softer and more doux.
(07/06)
Still
a very pale yellow/straw. Polished appearance. This is very delicate and
complex, yet barely evolved. Citrus with honeycomb behind. Lovely
freshness and complexity. Very long and fine. This will continue to hold
for many more years. (07/06)
More evolved than the 1961 equivalent. Medium deep – orange/copper. The
nose is delicate, with aromas apple nose and some caramel or toffee.
Distinctly sous-bois with white truffle. The palate is attractive and true to its origin and develops well in the
glass. Explosive on entry, it is
clean, pure, very fresh and barely evolved. There is great, racy acidity
and a delicate honeycomb character and a very long, mineral finish. This
is very fine. (09/09)
Mid depth. Youthful appearance. Closed nose and almost needs decanting to
open it up, however it is very fine and delicate behind. There is a
Riesling like petrol character here on both nose and palate, with a hint
of caramel and a dry finish. This is still incredibly youthful and there
is no rush to drink. (07/06)
A good representation of styles was made in this year, although it is
recognised in the
Polished
appearance. Mid-full. Hint of orange. Very clean but a hint of marzipan. A
little simple and advanced. Firm acidity on entry. Lacks flesh and
structure. A bit one dimensional, but with very fresh acidity to the
finish and a hint of bitterness. Unlikely to improve, but will hold.
(07/06)
Polished, but evolved appearance. Deep yellow. The nose is developed, but
is complex with a dry. Mineral edge. Initial residual sugar on entry gives
way to an austere palate. Very good grip. This is still very fresh with
good length and a hint of preserving carbon dioxide on the finish. (07/06)
Mid-depth.
Still youthful. Very clean and un-evolved nose. Youthful with a lovely
balance. There is almost an oak like quality to the palate. Atypical
flavour profile, but with fresh acidity that defines chenin, with good
structure and length. There is a richness and texture to the palate and is
still quite youthful, so could be expected to hold further. (07/06)
Not
the spectacular vintage that distinguishes Sauternes. The harvest
commenced on 14th October. Deep orange/gold appearance. Mature,
but not tired. Some champignon de
Paris, but quite mineral behind. Good mousse to palate. Well focused
with a hint of lime. Dry, mineral finish but lacks real complexity. Good
length. (07/06)
Light,
bright, yellow/gold appearance with a pale rim. Very mineral nose; not
unlike an old Savennières. Dry, mineral palate with quince and a bony
structure, although excellent silky texture . Racy acidity to the palate.
Very fresh, with a faint bitter twist to the finish. Good length and a
hint of liquorish and mandarins. Will hold, but not improve. (08/04)
Polished
appearance. Mid depth.
A
small vintage and somewhat overshadowed by the greater reputation of both
1970 and 1971. Bright with a deep, orange appearance. Faint prickle in the
glass. Champignon de Paris
initially, but with hazelnuts and honeycomb behind. The mousse is still
obvious on the palate and remains a full pétillant..
The wine is drier than the demi-sec
classification suggests. Dry to finish. Good length. Drink now or keep.
(07/06)
Polished,
mid-full appearance. Orange/gold. Very fresh nose. Mature, open and very
expressive. Inviting with a hint of mushroom or white truffle. Excellent
palate focus. This is still very fresh with lively acidity. Very good
length. This is drinking now, but will hold. (04/09)
Polished
and youthful appearance. Yellow/gold. Lovely delicate and complex nose.
Still youthful palate, with a lovely grip and texture on entry. This will
age and possibly evolve further. Crisp and fresh acidity. Great
finish. (07/06)
Polished.
Mid-full appearance. Orange/bronze. Delicate, but intense with very good
focus. Mature, with an element of botrytis to the nose. Caramel. Palate is
explosive with very good racy acidity. It doesn’t have the class of the
1971s, but it is both elegant and powerful. Very concentrated and youthful
and will age indefinitely. (07/06)
Harvest
commenced on 16th October. A range of styles was produced,
although it is more distinguished elsewhere than in Vouvray, possibly due
to an outbreak of grey or black rot prior to harvest. At an average of
45hl/ha, it was a big vintage. Mid-depth, yellow/orange appearance.
‘Dry’ nose with some champignon
de Paris (from the black rot?). This is more Riesling than Chenin.
Bone dry on entry. Taut and mineral. This is a little simple and one
dimensional. Will hold but not improve. A touch oily and petrol like on
the finish. Needs drinking. (07/06)
Mid depth. Youthful straw/yellow. Some Riesling and marzipan notes. Very
clean and precise and a much better than the Sec
above. Very good grip and focused acidity. Mineral and stony with a
persistent finish. This is still youthful and could evolve further.
(07/06)
Polished.
Mid depth. Yellow/gold. Pale to rim. No green hints. Delicate but broad
nose. Some vegetal hints. Restrained and mineral on both nose and palate.
More demi-sec in style and not
obviously sweet. Dry on entry. Very delicate yet builds well. Very taut
acidity. Nicely textured, but still quite tight and lean. Good focus and
length. Still youthful with the potential to evolve further. The wine has
a slight ‘maritime/oyster shell’ nose and palate, a characteristic,
apparently, of the black rot. (02/04)
This
is a very great and underestimated vintage at Huet and compares
stylistically and in quality to 1959. It also happened to be Noël’s
first vintage at the domain. He recalls a very concentra
Mid-depth
and still a youthful orange. Polished appearance. Still youthful nose and
an ‘old fashioned’ moëlleux
which is fresh and lively with a great thread of acidity which is
consistent with the vintage. Hints of toffee and caramel. This is still
immature and whilst is approachable now with great pleasure it will
continue to hold and evolve for many more years. Excellent. (07/06)
Clear,
not bright. Deep appearance. Orange/bronze with hints of olive green.
Intense botrytis nose. Rich and smoky. Raised, juicy acidity with some
positive VA. Complex flavours, with barley sugar and honeycomb. The
acidity will preserve this wine for decades. Excellent. (08/04)
100% botrytis. Surprisingly
deep, with a mid-full, amber/orange appearance. This is a very serious
botrytis vintage. Full and open nose. More obviously moëlleux.
Ripe, with coconut, vanilla and spice. A very exotic à point nose. Magnificent palate. Very fresh, crunchy acidity from
the start right through to the persistent finish. Exceptional precision,
poise and balance. Evolved and complex. Quince, marmalade, oranges and
mangoes. This is very fine and a real star. Still amazingly fresh, the
high acidity will preserve the wine for decades to come. A revelation.
(02/04)
From a big, dilute vintage. Harvesting commenced on 17th
October. Pale and youthful appearance. Straw/yellow. Faint champignon de
Very
youthful appearance. Polished, straw/yellow. Clean, with no sign of
ageing. Simple nose and lacks real interest or character. The palate is
more expressive with the sweetness holding the interest and the acid
carrying the finish. This is drinking now. It will hold but not improve. A
little fume. Perfectly decent, but not a great wine. (07/06)
Polished. Pale (there was no botrytis this vintage) yellow/straw with
green hints. Pale to rim. Strong clove nose with some faint marzipan
behind. Delicate on entry.
Builds well with very good racy acidity. More demi-sec
than moëlleux. Still very
fresh, clean and pure. A very good wine from a petite
année. Apples and pears, tarte
tatin and more cloves. Very good structure and length with a chalky
textured finish. This is still very youthful, ‘Too young’, says Noel.
(08/04)
Mature,
but still lively. Very fresh whilst distinctly mature. Flavours of honey
and orange marmalade combined with some savoury elements of iodine, smoke
and peat, like an
1976
Le Mont Demi-Sec
Deep
orange-copper. Distinctly mature appearance. Notes of cloves. Very ripe
and 'old fashioned' Chenin. The nose is very mature and a bit flat,
showing some botrytis-like characters. Rich on entry with the acidity
showing through. Well textured. It reminds me of the 2001s in some ways.
It's very rich for demi-sec. This is certainly for drinking now; it might
age further but certainly not improve. Good, but not a great wine. (04/10)
1980 Le Haut Lieu ‘Vin de
Glace’ Sec
A
dreadful vintage. This wine was picked in the snow on the 11th
November, although don’t be confused by the ‘ice wine’ designation.
This is bone dry with severe acidity that has taken a full 25 years to
come remotely into balance as the wine developed in bottle. The flavour
profile is now more like a demi-sec
and is a true, old fashioned Vouvray. This is a wine for Huet connoisseurs
and not for the faint hearted. The wines have also thrown an unsightly
black deposit in bottle which seems to disappear when poured. The wine
also appears very fragile and re-ferments easily when it comes into
contact with heat, so needs to be handled with care. (01/07)
1980 Le Mont Demi-Sec
A really lovely old fashioned style Huet and a great surprise given
the reputation of the vintage. Almost luminous green in appearance. Mature
honeycomb and apple nose and palate with well balanced acidity to match
the diminishing sugar level. Excellent. No rush to drink. (08/10)
1981 Le Haut Lieu
Sec
Polished, deep appearance. Yellow-gold. The nose is lovely and
classic. Distinctly mature but still very fresh; delicate, open and
complex. Well textured entry, clean and fresh and shows some richness.
Textbook apple flavours to the mid palate with very good focus and
structure. Drinking well now, but this should keep. The minerality within
the wine carries the finish. The wine has rounded out with age and doesn't
appear to be totally 'sec'. Very good and a great surprise to all. (01/10)
1981 Le Clos du
Bourg Demi-Sec
Polished. Mid-full yellow-gold. Very attractive appearance. Mature
nose with hints of marzipan, but gentle, soft and complex. This is still
attractive, even if it is a little old fashioned. The sweetness shows
early on the palate but countered by attractive green apple and quince
flavours and a clean mineral acidity. The result is a simple impression of
sweet and sour, although it remains fresh and lively. It builds well to
the finish, although is ultimately carried by the acidity. Still in decent
condition, but a little simple and just beginning to tire. Drink up.
(01/10)
1981 Le Mont Demi-Sec
Polished. Mid-depth yellow-gold. Gentle old Vouvray: mineral with a
little wet wool and still very attractive. The palate is lovely on entry
and still very fresh with structure, focus and definition. This is a
classic old style with marked acidity, but is clear and precise. There is
good flesh and weight still with flavours of honeycomb, baked apple and
quince. This won't improve, but there is absolutely no rush to drink up.
Still full of pleasure. Excellent. (01/10)
1982 Le Haut Lieu
Sec
Polished. Retains a hint of green. Mid-depth and clean on the nose.
Very attractive, although it has the slight chemical edge of Riesling. Dry
on entry and more monotone than the 1981 equivalent. The Riesling-like
character follows through on the palate. Falls a bit short and just
beginning to tire. There is also a faint bitter twist to the finish. Drink
up. (01/10)
1982
Le Clos du Bourg Demi-Sec
Lovely deep appearance. Yellow-gold with green hints.
Complex, rich honeycomb nose. Some classic matchbox character, and moving
into another stage of evolution. Mature and rich on entry. Sweetness shows
through, but it has lovely balance. Long finish. Mature, but could develop
further. Complex. (12/00)
1983
Le Haut Lieu Sec
Polished. Mid-full. Deep yellow with hints of gold. Mature nose, with
notes of mushrooms and a distinct flinty-reductive character that has
helped to preserve the wine. Full bodied entry with more reductive notes
which also makes it appear monotone. This is still very tight and closed.
After 30 years, I would be surprised if this wine will ever open up fully,
even if still very much alive. Tight and mineral on the finish. Decant
before serving. 11.5% alcohol and 4g/l RS. (01/10)
1984
Le Haut Lieu Sec
Polished. Deep yellow-gold. Lovely nose - a classic old fashioned
Vouvray. Very complex, clean, open and expressive, with fresh white
mushrooms, apples and an excellent mineral core. Despite the broad
appearance on the nose the palate is much more strict and appears bone dry
(3g/l). Very lively acidity; this is still very crisp and fresh. This is
unlikely to improve but is drinking really well now. The wine is carried
by the impression of the minerality. After 25 years, this has proved
itself the best Sec in the cellar from the first half of the 1980s. A
great surprise, even for Noël. 11% alcohol. (01/10)
1985
Le Haut Lieu Sec
Bright. Mid-depth. Yellow. Clean and tight nose that is not very
expressive and shows some faint reduction. Tight and mineral behind. Dry
on entry with some flavours of marzipan indicating that this is starting
to tire. Very dry and mineral on the palate with some faint bitterness on
the finish. Chalky textured and a little awkward and monotone. Falls
short. Drink up as unlikely to improve. (01/10)
Very
pale appearance and un-evolved on the nose with some reduction. This is
completely backward, although does show some evolution to the fruit
profile that suggests some possibly in-balance in the ageing process.
Faint citrus and diesel on the palate and the level of sweetness shows the
wine to be a true demi-sec.
There is excellent acidity and focus to the palate, but this wine just
doesn’t want to grow up. 18g/l. (01/07)
1985
Le Haut Lieu Moëlleux
Polished. Mid-pale with distinct green appearance. Light and delicate
nose which is not very expressive. Faintly savoury edge and appears dry on
entry and not an obvious moëlleux. Soft and gentle, but builds well and
is open and attractive. Still very fresh, clean and crisp with flavours of
apple and pear with a pear skin like texture. Still very long and lively.
Drink or keep. It still has the potential to age further. (01/10)
1985
Le Clos du Bourg Moëlleux
Polished. Mid-pale with distinct green hints. Delicate and very attractive
nose with an impression of licorice. Rich, ripe and clean on entry. Very
fresh balanced and a more classic style of moëlleux. This is showing some
maturity and is approachable now but there is absolutely no rush to drink.
It still has a long life ahead of it. Excellent and more immediately open
than Le Mont. (01/10)
Polished.
Mid-depth yellow-gold. Tighter and less evolved on both the nose and
palate than Le Clos du Bourg. It retains some of the reductive elements
that characterise this vintage, but opens up on opening. Nicely textured
with very good fresh acidity to the finish. Flavours of licorice. This is
still quite backward and has the potential to evolve further. 45 g/l.
(01/10)
1985
Le Clos du Bourg Moëlleux Première Trie
Luminous appearance. Mid-depth yellow-green. Still quite closed with
some faint reduction and signs of maturity. Hints of marzipan. The palate
is cleaner and much fresher than the nose suggests, with great balance,
freshness and concentration. There is a lovely thread of acidity running
through the wine, with an underlying minerality hiding below the obvious
sugar. This is only now just beginning to open up after a long period of
dormancy. Excellent potential still; it has a long life ahead of it.
(01/10)
1986
Le Mont Demi-Sec
Polished. Mid-depth yellow-straw. Classic old fashioned Vouvray,
although distinctly rustic with a nose that is reminiscent of the
rock-hewn caves at Huet. Not dislikable, but a little grubby with an
oyster shell character. It's a bit hollow on the mid palate and now robbed
of its fruit. Monotone and falls short. Drinking now and not particularly
interesting with functional acidity. Bitter to the finish. Simple and
undistinguished. Drink up. (01/10)
1986 Le Clos du Bourg Moëlleux
A
true expression of Vouvray. Evolved, but with lots of freshness and aromas
of honeycomb. Complex, attractive and rich on the nose. This is lovely.
There are some complex-inducing gunflint-reductive elements remaining.
Very delicate on entry with lovely racy acidity. Delicate through the
palate. Clean, with good length and balance. Ready now, but will continue
to hold. 45g/l (02/06)
This
is actually a blend of two vintages – 1987 (about 85%) and 1991. The
1987 wine was originally bottled as a sec
in 1988, but Noel was never happy with the wines evolution. After the
devastating spring frosts of 1991 that blighted most of north and western
France this year, Noel decided to decant all the 1987 and blend with the
miniscule (4hl/ha) 1991 harvest. The wine was bottled in 1992 as a full mousseux, but the passage of time has seen the CO2 dissipate to that
of a pétillant. It is a true
old style sparkling Vouvray with bruised apple and honeycomb flavours. It
is drinking now and will be expected to age further, although whether it
has the potential to improve further is open to debate. (07/06)
1987
Le Clos du Bourg Demi-Sec
Polished. Mid-depth yellow-gold. Two bottles tasted and both grubby.
Simple nose and mature and on the verge of oxidation. Aromas of cloves.
Old fashioned with some rot showing through. The palate is still quite
fresh and clean with juicy acidity, but there are more flavours of rot and
the wine appears green and unripe. This is a drier expression of demi-sec
and now stripped of its fruit. Drinkable but not distinguished. Drink up.
(01/10)
1988
Le Haut Lieu Sec
Polished. Mid-depth. Retains some hints of green. Attractive nose and
classic Huet, with a touch of wet wool and oyster shell. Delicate and
complex. Very good focus on entry, with weight and texture which develops
into a powerful, mineral-stony finish. Still very lively and fresh and
drinking well now although will continue to hold. Persistent finish with
just an impression of some residual sugar (8g/l). (01/10)
1988
Le Haut Lieu Demi-Sec
Polished.Mid-pale straw-yellow. Light, open and attractive nose
showing some maturity. Elements of marzipan indicate that this is
beginning to tire, but still very gentle with some delicate complexity.
Light on entry but builds on the palate. It's certainly less distinguished
than its Le Mont counterpart but still very fresh acidity even if the
flavour profile gives away its age. Its just a little simple to the
finish. A soft and round demi-sec with noticeable residual sugar. Drinking
now and will hold a few more years but will not improve. (01/10)
1988
Le Mont Demi-Sec
The ultimate expression of Vouvray. Complex, racy,
balanced and very persistent. This is the best demi-sec vintage since 1971
and is now at its peak, but could be expected to age and possibly even
evolve further. No rush to drink. (05/09)
This
is a special bottling in magnum for the ‘7eme Paulée Vin de Pays de
1989
Le Haut-Lieu Sec
Bright. Pale straw. This is barely evolved, either in
appearance or on the nose, which is still tight and reductive. The palate
is also very tight with more reductive elements. The wine hasn’t aged
and probably never will. Tight, even severe, on the finish with a chalky
texture. Drink up. (10/09)
1989 Le Haut Lieu Demi-Sec
Bright. Mid-depth, yellow. Broad nose, but not very
complex with some faint reduction, but showing more evolution, with aromas
of quince and toffee apple. The palate is still quite tight and mineral.
This is still worthy, if not particularly interesting. Unlikely to
improve. (10/09)
1989 Le Haut-Lieu Moelleux
Polished. Mid-depth, straw-yellow. Very clean, if
initially a little simple on the nose. There is a deceptive impression of
some oak. The palate is lovely, and much more open and expressive. It is
still very fresh and barely evolved, with racy acidity which helps to
carry the finish. Very good poise and texture. Persistent and dangerously
drinkable. This will age for another twenty years, at least. (10/09)
1989 Le Haut-Lieu Moelleux ‘Première Trie’
Polished. Mid-depth, orange-brown. The nose is very
delicate and restrained to the point of being closed. Lovely on entry,
with great poise and restraint. Very fresh and clean with racy acidity
with flavours of quince and pear. It is still taut and despite the obvious
sweetness, there is an underlying thread of minerality. Persistent. This
is still very youthful and has more to give. (10/09)
1989 Cuvée Constance
The first
release of this super cuvée. This is a blend of the first and last
pressings of the Le Mont 1ere Trie, together with the two experimental
blends, below. There was very little botrytis in 1989, but this is 100%.
Luminous appearance. Orange-gold. Rich and intense on the
nose. There are aromas of confit fruits; dried apricots and peach, with
baked spiced apple and quince. Very delicate and very complex. The palate
is rich and concentrated on entry, with a lovely thread of acidity (over
10 grammes) running
through the wine. Wonderful structure and length. A faultless yet extreme
sweet wine; one that has surpassed the character of the vintage and the
appellation. This will last forever. 162g/l with 11%
alcohol. (10/09) - ‘The most perfect Loire wine I have ever tasted’ (6-stars) –
Michael Broadbent MW.
This was
Noel’s first experimental wine made from vineyards that were at that
stage in conversion. About 500 bottles were produced. The sugar level here
is enormous and more like an essensia.
Deep, almost copper appearance. Backward nose and not very expressive.
Coconut flavours and incredibly concentrated to the palate and with less
acidity than above. It still has a good balance and the acidity is marked,
with a positive hint of added volatile acidity. The flavour profile is of citrus confit – marmalade and burnt oranges to the finish. This is
just a little too excessive and lacks the finesse of the Cuvée Constance.
(01/07)
This was the
‘reference’ bottling to the biodynamic experiment. Slightly less
intense in appearance, although the profile is very similar. This is more
restrained and delicate, although there is almost an influence of wood.
Very fresh, juicy, crunchy acidity. Again, this is intense and powerful
with better balance and a wonderful long finish. A little volatile acidity
here too adds to the overall balance and complexity. (01/07)
1990
Le
Haut-Lieu Sec
1990
Le Haut Lieu Moëlleux
Mid
depth. Straw yellow. Pale to rim. Slightly honeyed with obvious richness
and concentration. Delicate and gentle, if a little rustic. Easy and
approachable now. Distinct bruised apple flavours. Good length although a
little clumsy. Drinking well now, but will continue to hold and even
evolve. (04/10)
100% botrytis.
Polished appearance. Deep
orange/amber with a pale green rim. More evolved than the others from this
vintage. Coconut, oranges and apricots backed up with honey. Botrytis
shows behind. A hint of Volatility helps to lift the wine. Lighter and
currently more balanced that Le Clos du Bourg. Crunchy acidity and very
fresh and clean. Lovely texture and acid balance. Very precocious and
flattering. Drinking now, but unlikely to evolve further. (04/10)
100% botrytis. Polished. Mid depth. Has the greatest graduation of this
trio. Orange/amber. Still very backward, but appears the most refined of
the trio on the nose. Honey/honeycomb, apricots and spice. Very delicate.
Broad on entry and a touch clumsy at present, lacking the acidity (or at
least the acid is currently disparate) of the other two. Dry to the
finish. My previous note (in 2004) states 'Still very reserved and needs
more time', but on this tasting it was the most expressive of the trio of 1ere
Tries. Drinking now and will hold, if not necessarily improve. (04/10)
100% botrytis. Polished.
Very deep. Orange/amber/bronze. Closed nose. Some tea-like character, but
currently very closed, although the botrytis is evident. The palate is
more expressive with a lovely thread of high toned acidity running through
the wine. Powerful, with very firm, crunchy acidity. Builds well in the
mouth and is still very fresh with more to give. Very powerful. Ultimately
the best of this trio. With the firm acidity, it is possibly another 1971
or even 1947 in the making.
(04/10)
1991
Vouvray Sec
A blend of all three vineyards as there was too little wine to vinify
separately (the yield was 3hl/ha due to the devastating frosts this year).
It was bottled, lightly fined and unfiltered, by Noël as a 'souvenir' of
the vintage. There are just 100 bottles and this was only the second time
Noël and Jean-Bernard had tasted it. Bright. Mid-depth yellow. An
attractive nose made complex by some reduction: flinty and mineral and,
according to Noël, 'Close to Chablis'. There is an impression of maturity
although the wine remains tight and attractive. Excellent focus on entry,
even if there is not much flesh here. Bone dry and mineral. A very lean
style and not unlike the 1980 equivalent. The wine is carried by the
acidity and minerality. No rush to drink, but this is something for
Vouvray purists only. (01/10)
1992
Le Haut Lieu Demi-Sec
Bright.
Deep appearance. Mature yellow-gold. Broad nose but not very expressive.
There is a lot of reduction here, which helps to give it a sense of
complexity, but the wine is beginning to tire. Ripe on entry with
sweetness showing. Decent grip of acidity and still shows good minerality
on the mid palate. Builds well to the finish. Better in the mouth than the
nose suggests. Well textured and still giving pleasure. This will hold,
but is probably at its peak now. (01/10)
1992
Le Clos du Bourg Demi-Sec
Polished. Mid-depth yellow-gold. Broad nose that is both clean and
open. Simple but attractive and now mature. The palate is better: still
fresh with good acidity which helps to carry the finish. It remains quite
simple, earthy and a little bitter on the finish. Still holding up but
needs drinking now. Credible but not distinguished. Certainly the least
good of this pair of demi-sec in this vintage. (01/10)
1993
Le Clos du Bourg Sec
Bright. Mid-depth yellow. Attractive nose. Soft, rounded but still
very fresh and tight. Smoky and mineral behind. Bone dry on entry with
good weight and texture. Rounded on entry, but this is still a wine
distinguished by its firm acidity. Builds well to a rich and powerful
finish. The wine has fattened out with age which gives the impression of
it being a sec-tendre in style (5g/l rs). Good balance and still
very fresh and youthful. Drinking now but will hold further, if not
improve. 12% alcohol. (01/10)
1993
Le Mont Demi-Sec
Polished. Mid-full yellow-gold. Mature nose made complex by a degree
of reduction. A bit rustic and old fashioned. Broad and slightly more
exotic than its equivalent style from 1992. The palate is better with
great freshness and balance. Hints of minerality and oyster shell. Well
textured with a very fresh acidity to the finish. Still holding up well,
even if it is not very distinguished. It won't improve. (01/10)
This is actually an assemblage of all three vineyards
(it was originally released as Cuvée Constance). Ripe and quite oxidative
in style, showing both honey and honeycomb. Sweet, but with perfectly
poised acidity. Although mature, there is no rush to broach this as it
will hold, if not improve, for many more years. 68 g/l (02/03)
1994 Le Mont Sec
The
wines are characterised by very deep colours; a function of very thick
skins rather than any influence of botrytis or oxidation. This is Sec is
deep orange in appearance and currently reduced with a flinty, mineral
nose. Tight, austere palate and bone dry with very firm acidity. Grippy
and old fashioned with a stuck match quality. The wine is very drinkable
and given the acid profile will age for a considerable length of time.
(07/06)
Amber
appearance. Some struck match characteristics. More complex than above,
but still very taut and mineral. On the palate there is wonderful
freshness and balance with juicy and racy acidity. This is drinking now
but will age and evolve further. (07/06)
1995
Mousseux Brut
Polished.
Mid-full yellow-gold. Typical old style nose, with some champignon de
paris notes and a mature, smoky Chenin character. Old fashioned and a
little rustic. The palate is a little grubby and falls a bit short and
appears a little bitter on the finish. No rush to drink but unlikely to
improve. (01/10)
1995 Le
Clean,
light-pale golden yellow. Lovely complex nose of baked apples and quince.
Zingy acid, but not out of balance. Rich and clean, with the palate
shadowing the aromas. Very good length. Approachable, but no rush to
drink. (02/08)
1995
Le Clos du Bourg Demi-Sec
Polished. Mid-depth with green hints. Lovely and complete nose with
apples, honeycomb and quince. Complex with some smoky-flinty reduction.
The sugar shows on the front of the palate even though at 14g/l of
residual sugar this just achieves official designation as a demi-sec. It's
a true reflection of the vintage with high acidity; its still not reached
its full potential and even tastes a little disparate. The only danger is
that the acidity could outlive the fruit. Drink now or keep. (12.5%
alcohol). (01/10)
1995
Le Mont Moëlleux
Polished. Mid-depth yellow-gold. Very tight on the nose and not very
expressive. Closed and dull on entry with a simple sweetness. The wine is
marked by the characteristic fresh acidity that makes the wine appear
almost demi-sec in style; it may well 'dry out' further with age. This is
still very young and really needs more time. At fifteen years old this
remains a true spotty adolescent, but with an Oxbridge education ahead of
it. (01/10)
Luminous.
Deep yellow-gold. Open and attractive nose and still very youthful. There
is more evidence of passerillage
here than botrytis. Dried fruits and orange peel, coconut and faintly
smoky. Very delicate, with the fresh acidity characteristic of the vintage
shining through. Juicy, building well to a persistent finish. This is
approachable now (the 1995s have always been accessible), but could be
expected to go much, much further. Edgy and nervous to the point of almost
being volatile. The finish is of coconut and the impression of toasty oak
(which of course there isn’t). Very
long and thrilling. 78g/l. (01/10)
1995
Cuvée Constance
Polished. Deep orange/bronze. Profound, concentrated nose that is
broad and complex. Intense on entry and marked by the acidity of the
vintage. Very fresh, clean and lively. There is a sense that this wine has
barely evolved, with complex flavours of apricots and peaches. Exotic and
lifted, with a positive edge of volatility which helps carry the wine.
Behind the obvious acidity there is a highly textured honey-like palate.
Rich and very long. The wine is approachable but is still in its infancy
and would benefit from much longer ageing. A comparison between the 1995
and 1997 Cuvée Constance would not be out of place with the 1989 and 1990
vintages at Huet, with the 1989 being consistent to the 1995 (much less
evolved, but perhaps the finer wine for the long haul), whilst the 1990
vintage is like the 1997 Constance; much more seductive and approachable
now. (10.61% alcohol, 142g/l rs). (01/10)
1996
Le Haut Lieu Sec
Polished. Mid-depth. Yellow-green. Attractive and delicate nose that
is smoky and mineral. Soft on entry and builds well on the palate. This is
a distinctly richer and riper style with very good texture and balance
with an impression of citrus fruits on the mid-palate. Very long and
powerful to the finish. A classic style that appears more sec-tendre
(9g/l) in character. This is mature but should hold and even develop
further. Excellent. 12.5% alcohol. (01/10)
1996
Le Mont Sec
Polished. Mid-depth. Distinct green appearance. Attractive nose that
is both mineral and flinty without any sign of reduction. Very Le Mont.
Complex and brooding this is a wine determined by its minerality. Dry on
entry (5g/l), but rounded with very good weight and texture. This is a
slightly more refined version of Le Haut Lieu. Powerful to the finish.
This is serious and an excellent example of both Le Mont and the Huet
sytle. Drinking now, but will continue to hold and improve. 12% alcohol.
(01/10)
1996
Le Haut Lieu Moëlleux
Polished. Mid-deep yellow-gold. Broad, ripe and open nose with aromas
of peach, baked apple and toffee. The palate is equally ripe and
expressive with lovely concentration. Lush. Very good balance, with a
softer, more tempered acidity: its almost more like a Coteaux du Layon in
style. This is drinking now but could be expected to age and evolve
further. Very good. (01/10)
1996 Le Clos du Bourg Moëlleux 1ere
Trie
Polished,
youthful appearance. Mid depth. Honey, marmalade and smoky nose, and
although produced through passerillage
this shows some orange-peel like characters of botrytis affected fruit.
Well textured on entry. Good concentration. Still quite tight and
youthful. This will benefit with further maturation. There is a lovely
focused acidity to the finish to the point of almost appearing dry. Great
length. A very good example. 68g/l (02/06)
1997
Pétillant Brut
Bright. Mid-yellow/gold. Attractive, soft and rounded nose. Complex
and subtle, but also serious. This is less obviously Vouvray, with notable
bready, autolytic hints. Excellent palate focus, with an underlying
minerality and flavours of apples and honey coming through. The mousse is
gentle and refined. Very good. Drinking now, but age further.
(01/10)
1997
Le Haut Lieu Sec
Polished. Mid-full appearance. Yellow-gold. Clean on the nose although
a bit quiet and reserved. Rounded on entry and shows the richness of the
vintage (7g/l rs). It builds well retaining structure and a mineral
profile. Chalky textured with an impression of its slightly elevated
alcohol (13%). Well balanced and easy drinking and, dare one say
'commercial'. Drinking well now, but no rush. (01/10)
1997
Le Clos du Bourg Moëlleux Première Trie
Polished. Deep yellow-gold. Lovely ripe nose that is lifted and
perfumed with a complex array of aromas: apricot confit and exotic fruits.
Rich and concentrated on entry with lovely balancing freshness. Flavours
of oranges and apricot confit to the finish. This is open and expressive,
but also still in its adolescent state and has a very long and
distinguished life ahead of it. (01/10)
1997
Le Mont Moëlleux Première Trie
Polished. Deep-orange-gold appearance. Dense, open and rich on the
nose with the impression of toasty oak behind (there is no wood here).
Very pure. Lovely on entry: very open and expressive but also has the
concentration, structure and density to evolve over many decades. This is
lush and very fine with its juicy acidity in perfect harmony with the body
of the wine. Persistent and very fine. Flattering. (01/10)
1997
Cuvée Constance
Bright. Much deeper than the 1995 Constance. Deep orange-bronze (a
function of the botrytis). Rich and concentrated with an almost saline,
Madeira-like nose backed up with toffee and caramel. The palate appears
richer and sweeter than the 1995 (12.3% alcohol, 138g/l rs), although the
analysis isn't consistent to this. The flavours on the palate echo those
on the nose. Concentrated to the point of being so extreme that it becomes
difficult to identify the origin as Vouvray or Chenin. Very lush and
immediately seductive. For those with both vintages in their cellar, my
suggestion is to drink the 1997 Constance before the 1995, although this
still has a very long life ahead of it. Very impressive. (01/10)
1998
Vouvray Mousseux Brut
Light, delicate and elegant with lots of honeycomb
aromas and flavours. Drink now or hold. 10g/l dosage. (02/03)
1998
Le Haut Lieu Sec
Polished. Mid-depth. Yellow-straw. Attractive nose that is both open
and gently complex with some cloves, spiced baked apples and a mineral
edge. The nose is more flattering than the palate which is quite severe
and marked by a pithy acidity. It builds well but is carried by the
acidity and lacks substance and flesh. Chalky and a bit phenolic on the
finish. Rustic and certainly less successful. Drink up as this won't
improve. Undistinguished. (12% alcohol, 6g/l rs). (01/10)
1998
Le Clos du Bourg Sec
Polished. Deep appearance and a distinctly mature yellow-gold. Broad,
open and mature nose with distinct clove-like aromas. Soft and ripe on
entry with a similar flavour profile to the nose. Better balanced than Le
Haut-Lieu, but this is still course and phenolic and marked by bitterness.
Powerful finish but lacks soul or any sense of pleasure. Drink now or
soon. (12.8% alcohol, 6g/l rs). (01/10)
1998
Le Mont Sec
Polished. Mid-full. Yellow-gold with hints of green. Tighter than le
Clos du Bourg, but still quite rounded and certainly less advanced in
maturity. The palate is open and expressive with good flesh and a sense of
minerality and flavours of apples and quince. But the wine is still marked
by the phenolic edge and bitterness on the palate. It is the most
successful of the trio of sec produced this vintage, but it is
still generally a vintage to avoid chez Huet. (12.34% alcohol, 9g/l
rs). (01/10)
1999
Le Clos du Bourg Sec
Bright. Very deep yellow gold and distinctly mature for a wine of this
age. The colour is a result of the condition of the grapes at the harvest
and is consistent with other wines from this vintage. The nose is advanced
and showing some oxidation. There is no sign of fruit here and the wine is
marked by rot. Not attractive: rustic and old fashioned in a negative
sense. Broad on entry with flavours of cloves and on the edge of being
oxidised. Lacks definition or structure. Hollow palate that falls short.
Appears burnt and alcoholic (even if this is relatively low at 10.64%).
Chalky and phenolic to finish. This is tired and falling apart. Best
avoided. (6g/l rs). (01/10)
1999
Le Mont Sec
Polished. Very deep appearance. Very similar in style and character to
Le Clos du Bourg. Mature, with aromas of cloves (not a character I like on
Chenin anywhere) and stale spice. Evidence of botrytis and rot makes it
smell rustic and is certainly not inviting. On the verge of being oxidised.
The palate is better: dry and mineral with a sense of structure that is
lacking in the above. Chalky, phenolic and bitter to the finish. This is
just about still drinkable, but there is no joy here. Best avoided. It
needs drinking up quickly (if at all). (10.80% alcohol, 4g/l rs).
(01/10)
1999 Le Mont Demi-Sec
Polished.
Deep appearance. Yellow-gold. Unusually for a Huet wine, this shows signs
of advanced maturity. It’s a bit grubby, with some rustic sous-bois aromas, presumably rot. Dry on entry, with flavours of
cloves and a smoky, mouldy orange profile. Old-fashioned and rustic with a
chalky texture. This is almost dry, regardless of the high level of
residual sugar, which is hidden by the very high natural acidity. Saline
and iodine flavours to the finish. Drinking now. Will hold but unlikely to
improve. Ordinary at best. 3,000 bottles produced. 34g/l. (07/08)
Domaine Huet
L’Echansonne
11/13 rue de la Croix Buisée
T: + 33 2 47 52 78 87
F: + 33 2 47 52 66 74
contact@huet-echansonne.com
www.huet-echansonne.com