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Guide
to the Loire regions
Val du
Loir
Producer
Profiles – Coteaux du Vendômois
Domaine
de la Charlotterie
The
Houdeberts are an old farming family established here on the plains of la
petite Beauce for many generations. Their primary business comes from
the 140 hectares of arable land they own where they grow a variety of
cereal crops. The history of winemaking here goes back some seventy years,
although it was Dominique Houdebert’s father, Moïse, who gave the then
seven hectares of vines a new lease of life in 1973. The first harvest was
in 1976, the year of the drought. In 1983, the arrival of the TGV line saw
the domaine cut diagonally in half and the young vines, which had only
just been planted, were grubbed up. Dominique has been involved with the
farm since 1988 and the vineyards have been slightly restructured. Today
they work eight hectares of vines on the plateau high above the Loir’s south bank. These are split into four separate parcels; le Paradis and la Fortière
in Houssay and le Baquet and le
Perré in Villiersfaux.
Wine
Overview :
Of the eight
hectares only three are dedicated to the appellation Coteaux du Vendômois.
At two hectares, Gamay is the most important variety on the farm: this is
all vinified by carbonic maceration and sold as departmental Vin de Pays
both in bottle and en vrac.
There are also plantings of Sauvignon (1.15ha) and Chardonnay (0.60ha)
along with some Cabernet Sauvignon (0.80ha) which fell out of favour with
the INAO for appellation wines in 2000. This leaves Chenin (0.93ha),
Pineau d’Aunis (1.45ha), Pinot Noir (0.50ha) and Cabernet Franc (0.55ha)
for the appellation wines. Everything here is machine harvested. The wines
are fermented in concrete tanks and stored in stainless steel before
bottling in the spring after the vintage.
The sales of the wines are primarily to a loyal local base - Dominique
stating that some 60% are sold over the tasting room table - and the
Paris
market has become important due, primarily, to the number of Parisians who
own maisons secondaires within the region.
The Wines :
There are no
real surprises here. These are wines that are correct and made for early
consumption.
2006
Coteaux du Vendômois Blanc
Pale straw. Clean and bright. Clean nose, although restrained. Primary
Chenin fruit with some apples. Simple on entry with some marzipan flavours.
A bit dilute on the finish. Drink now. (12/08)
2000 Coteaux du Vendômois Blanc
Polished.
Pale yellow-straw appearance. Attractive nose with some mature yellow
peach and marzipan like Chenin notes. Dry on entry with good palate
weight. A ‘petit Chenin’, but authentic. Fresh acidity to the finish.
Drinking well now, this could evolve and age further. Juicy to the finish.
Good. (12/08)
2007 Coteaux du Vendômois Gris
Polished.
Salmon pink. Light, clean and primary nose. Faint white pepper behind the
primary fruit character. Light on entry with good fresh acidity. Mineral
and faintly spicy. Drinking now. (12/08)
2007 Coteaux du Vendômois Blanc ‘Cuvée Prestige’
Vinified as demi-sec
with 19g/l of residual sugar. Bright, pale straw appearance. Clean and
primary nose with youthful Chenin aromas. Quince and apple flavours, but a
little shallow and shows a simple sweetness. Good balance, but otherwise
undistinguished. Drink now. (12/08)
2005 Coteaux du Vendômois Blanc ‘Cuvée du Raisin Doré’
The
appellation doesn’t allow for moëlleux,
but in 2003 and again in 2005 there was little option but to apply for a
derogation. Bright. Mid-pale straw. Clean nose with some density and
concentration. The sweetness (40g/l) shows, but the wine retains good
balance. Very clean with some simple primary Chenin flavours. Quince and
liquorish. Well balanced, although finishes a touch short. Drink now, or
keep a few years. (12/08)
2003 Coteaux du Vendômois Blanc ‘Cuvée du Raisin Doré’
Bright, some green hints. Broad nose, but quite closed and restrained. It
shows some richness behind. Rich on entry with obvious sweetness (39g/l)
and weight, but still a quite delicate style. Good texture. Fresh and well
balanced. More flavours of quince and liquorish to the finish. Less
acidity that the 2005. Drinking now. (12/08)
2007 Coteaux du Vendômois Rouge ‘Tradition’
A blend of
40% Pineau d’Aunis with 30% each of Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir. A
little hot and baked on the nose. Quite tight on the palate, with some
pepper showing. Mid weight, but with decent fruit although finishes a
little dry and stalky. Drink early. (12/08)
2006 Coteaux du Vendômois Rouge ‘Tradition’
Bright,
youthful purple to the rim. Attractive soft red fruit nose with some white
pepper. Delicate and a bit herbal on entry. Mid weight with mineral, fresh
acidity. Racy with good grip and noticeable tannins. A bit too lean and
short. Drink now and in the next two years. (12/08)
2005
Coteaux du Vendômois Rouge ‘Tradition’
Polished.
Mid-pale appearance. Red/purple to rim. More obvious pepper here with an
attractive and inviting nose. Mid-light on entry, but nicely structured.
More delicate and better balanced overall. Juicy and fresh with good grip
of acidity. There is a sense of ripeness one would expect with the
vintage. Good. Drink now and over the next five years. (12/08)
2004 Coteaux du Vendômois Rouge ‘Tradition’
Very pale
red with a light purple/pink rim. Clean but closed nose. Light pepper on
the palate with some grip. A bit too dry and lacking flesh. Short and dry
on the finish. One dimensional. (12/08)
Domaine de la Charlotterie
Dominique & Brigitte Houdebert
2 Rue du Bas Bourg
Villiersfaux
T: + 33 2 54 80 29 79
F: + 33 2 54 73 10 01
Dominique.houdebert@wanadoo.fr
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