Tasting Notes
An appraisal of the 1989 vintage - Twenty years on
A few words on the 1989 growing season
The year got off to a good start. Early budding
(and no late spring frosts) followed by regular and early flowering
meant that by the end of June the vines were already around three weeks
ahead of a normal year. A hot and dry summer simply consolidated this
position and all was set for a spectacular vintage.
Whilst both 1989 and 1990 are seen as precocious vintages, 1989 was marginally hotter and more sunny than 1990, with the harvest starting for the Cabernet Franc appellations on the 18th September; around 21 days earlier than the average date of any other vintage during the 1980s.
The harvest everywhere was completed under perfect
conditions, however, the hot weather may well have caught out the producers
within the Cabernet Franc based appellations, who found they had to pick in the
height of an Indian summer and in temperatures much hotter than would have
normally been expected. Those whose cellars were equipped with the correct
technology to regulate the fermentation will have benefited most, whilst
growers still working with the most basic of equipment suffered from run away fermentations
and the issues that result from such conditions; namely over-extracted, jammy and tannic wines. Comparisons
with the harvest conditions in Bordeaux in 1982 can be drawn, where tales
are often told of blocks of ice being thrown into fermenting vats to help
stem the rising temperatures. Despite the potential pitfalls, 1989 was
probably the best vintage for the red wines in Touraine, Anjou and Saumur since
1964.
FLIGHT ONE
LOIRE
REDS
A very mixed flight and somewhat disappointing overall.
The wines showed a little too rustic and, in some cases, the heat of the
vintage with too much tannin and over-extraction. The Chinon from Charles
Joguet was probably the best wine in the flight. The Foucault brother’s
wines are always impressive, but too atypical for my own purist
palate.
Mid-full. Just showing some maturity to the rim, but still
pretty profound for the variety. The nose is lovely, with a classic mature
Cabernet Franc aromas; lead
pencils, and suitably stalky, but not unripe. Just a little confit,
showing the ripeness of the vintage. Very good concentration on entry.
Complex and delicate, but with an inky quality. This is still quite firm,
with the tannins still present, and there is some stalkyness on the
finish. The acidity appears high on the finish and it is a little rustic
and over-extracted. The nose is prettier than the palate. It needs food to
counteract the tannin and acidity. This could be expected to age further.
(10/09)
1989
Bourgueil ‘Cuvée Beauvais’ Pierre-Jacques Druet
Mid-depth. Youthful red appearance with no real sign of
maturity or ageing. Very clean with good red fruits on the nose. Still
quite pure, although the palate is a disappointment. Clean, but monotone,
it has lost its fruit. Builds well, but the structure is based on acidity
and tannin and is too extracted. Hollow, with no flesh and is still too
tannic on the finish. Drink up. (10/09)
1989
Saumur-Champigny ‘Vieilles Vignes’, Domaine Filliatreau
Polished. Mid-depth. Still youthful, with only the first
signs of the colour starting to change to the rim. Very light and delicate
on the nose with a faint (positive) stalky quality, with hints of mint.
The wine builds well on entry, although it is a little dry on the finish.
There is a little fruit left on the mid-palate and is still nicely
balanced, but the acid is just beginning to carry the wine and the tannins
are starting to dry the wine out. It needs food and is probably best drunk
up soon. (10/09)
1989
Saumur-Champigny ‘Poyeaux’ Foucault
Polished. Still very youthful with no real sign of ageing.
Very pure nose. This is distinctly menthol with the influence of oak. This
could be Australian or an old fashioned Rioja, but is very well made if,
for me, completely atypical. The structure is still very sound, with good
balance and very fresh and integrated acidity. There is more eucalyptus to
the palate and the wine is dominated by mint and oak. Will age further.
This is quite typical of the Foucault style, although I find it too far
removed from my idea of what Saumur-Champigny is all about. (10/09)
1989
Chinon ‘Clos de la Dioterie’ Charles Joguet
Mid-depth red with very good graduation to the rim.
Complex nose, although there is a hint of brettanomyces here, which to be
fair, adds (rather than detracts) to the overall experience. The palate is
seductive, with lots of interest. It appears just to be starting to dry
out on the finish with the acidity starting to carry the wine. Complex and
delicate and still very fresh. Ideally, needs food. Earthy and sous-bois
with good texture. This should hold for a few more years, although will
not improve further. (10/09)
THE
BERRY
A token (if fatigued) red linked this flight to the
previous. For a market that insists on drinking the youngest available
vintage of Sauvignon, these wines were a revelation; still incredibly pure
and fresh with no sign of negative ageing. They are certainly worth
seeking out in cellars and on wine lists.
Very shallow and mature
appearance. Distinctly old orange-brown Pinot-like rim. Attractive, proper
and gentle old Pinot Noir nose; organic and animal. It is clearly not
Burgundy, but still quite pretty. Sadly, the palate is completely dried
out with only the bare bones of acidity remaining. (10/09)
Polished. Pale appearance with still some hints of green.
Very promising. The nose is lovely, with pure Sauvignon fruit, even after
twenty years. There is a hint of reduction, or the nose of silex/gunflint
which adds to the overall flinty complexity. Very fine and delicate on
entry, with the flavours of white flowers, suggesting the first signs of
the wine ageing. Delicate with a fine, lacy, chalky texture to the finish.
There is no rush to drink up. Excellent. (10/09)
1989
Sancerre ‘La Bourgeoise’ Henri Bourgeois
Very pale and youthful. The wine is barely evolved. The
nose is still lovely and fresh with still quite primary Sauvignon fruit
character on both the nose and palate, with elements of flint/reduction
which only benefits to the overall complexity. Great purity and a smoky
minerality. It is still tight, but very fine. This wine still has a very
long life ahead of it, but is lovely and seductive now. (10/09)
TOURAINE
A limited flight of satellite appellations within
Touraine, these were competent if not particularly inspiring examples.
We are still trying to identify the grower of this
mystery bottle. Pale straw appearance. Clean nose, with a good, old
fashioned Chenin expression. Slight wet-wool, marzipan and terpene aromas.
Lean, austere and bone dry on entry with an intense thread of acidity.
This is still very youthful, if preserved by the acidity level alone.
There is a chalky, malic texture to the palate with a tight mineral
finish. The linear acidity suggests this wine will continue to age, even
if it won’t improve. It is drinking well now, even if only of real
interest to Chenin purists. (10/09)
Dull appearance. Mid-depth, yellow-straw. Dull and simple
nose, although does show some richness and density. Not very expressive. A
little chemical, dusty and grubby and a little flat, although it retains a
good Chenin character. The palate is better, with very good acid balance
and linearity, and a chalky, mineral texture. Juicy on the finish, with a
apple-like freshness. This is still in its middle age and shows no sign of
tiring. An interesting if minor classic. (10/09)
MONTLOUIS
This was a relatively small flight considering the size
and importance of the region. It include wines from both Berger and Moyer
who were considered to be two of the best exponents of the appellation
during this period, although neither examples are as distinguished as
their peers in Vouvray in the flights that follow.
Dull, mid-pale appearance. Yellow-straw. Quite dull and
simple, although it retains an honest Chenin nose. A little old-fashioned
and not particularly distinguished or expressive. The palate is still firm
and mineral, and pretty dry (or dried out) for a moelleux. Rustic and
earthy on the finish, with some flavours of apples and quince. There is a
still an attractive thread of acidity on the finish. It’s a minor wine
for drinking now, but won’t improve any further. (10/09)
VOUVRAY
– VARIOUS
A mixed bag in every sense, with variable styles and
quality. It also highlights the infuriating habit of some growers not to
indicate the style of specific bottlings on their labels. The Daniel Jarry
wine is the highlight of this particular flight.
Dull. Straw-yellow. Grubby Chenin nose. Unclean and
undistinguished. Thin and drying out. Poor (10/09)
1989
‘Doux’ Daniel Jarry
Polished.
Mid-depth. Yellow with distinctly green hints offering a promising
graduating colour to the rim. Typical of the wines of Jarry, it is very
shy on the nose; reserved and understated, but still is a classic example
of Vouvray. There is a ‘green’ note to both the nose and the palate
and very taut, with thrilling acidity at the fore before the sugar rush
comes through. Very restrained but with great focus. This still has more
to give with decades still ahead of it. Very good. (10/09)
VOUVRAY
– CLOS BAUDOIN
'Clos Baudoin' was the name of the posh five hectare vineyard,
occasionally vinified dry - but more often produced as a moëlleux
- when vintage conditions allowed. Aigle Blanc was from the remaining 17
hectares and effectively used as a second label.
An interesting trio from Prince Poniatowski, which helped
to confirm my view that the wines are sound, but are not worthy of being
in the top flight of growers. Taken in isolation, these wines are very
good, but lack the precision one should expect from a great vintage.
Bright. Mid-depth, straw-yellow, going on gold. Ripe but
dull nose and a little clumsy. Evidence of quince behind, but still a
little shallow. The palate is better and builds nicely, with very good
texture, with flavours of quince and pears. Well balanced. This is still
not within the better wines of the vintage, but its a classic style and
whilst drinking well now, it should hold a few years more. (10/09)
1989
Domaine Baudoin ‘Aigle Blanc – Vin de Tris’
Dull
appearance. Rich, full orange-gold. Distinctive toffee apple nose, but
also a little too caramelised to the point of being a little too monotone.
The palate is a little more expressive, with green fruit (greengages or
green fig) and quite obvious sweetness, although this is reigned in by the
acidity. Flavours echo the caramel and toffee apple of the nose. Good
weight and balance. This is drinking well now, but will continue to age
for a good while yet. (10/09)
VOUVRAY
– ANDRÉ AND BERNARD FOUQUET; FATHER AND SON
It was only
the second stand alone vintage for a young Bernard Fouquet, but his
reputation was secured by the quality of the wines he produced in 1989.
Fortunate as he might have been, setting up cellar the year before the
greatest vintage since 1947, he was able to repeat the performance in
1990, propelling him into the premier league of Vouvray growers, a
position that he has maintained for the past two decades.
Bright. Pale yellow-straw. Attractive, proper, old
fashioned Vouvray. Delicate on entry with a ripe, creamy texture. The wine
has very good focus and fresh acidity. This is still youthful with great
balance although, understandably, it is very rich for a demi-sec, being
more like a petit moelleux. The
finish is persistent. Very good, and no rush to drink up. (10/09)
VOUVRAY
– PHILIPPE FOREAU
Whilst there was a strategic release of a Sec in 1989,
this is undoubtedly a great sweet wine vintage for Foreau. The sweet wines
have (unlike Huet) always been thrilling to drink having never closed up
in bottle. Whist the limited release ‘Réserve 1ère Trie’
was dangerously seductive in its youth, time has seen it fatten out to the
point of becoming a little obese. It is still undoubtedly a great wine and
will continue to give pleasure for decades to come, but it now lacks the
real finesse of its well-toned siblings.
Very pale. Straw appearance with a hint of orange. The
nose is reductive, although behind there is the over-mature aromas of
white flowers. This is beginning to tire without ever becoming fully
mature. The palate is classic old fashioned Vouvray, with firm, linear
acidity. It is a little grubby and understandably, a little too ripe for a
true sec. The acidity is now carrying the wine and it is beginning to dry
out. It needs drinking up. (10/09)
Bright.
Mid-full, orange-bronze. Explosive on the nose, it is very broad, open and
expressive with a complex array of aromas, centered on different types of
mint; eucalyptus, spearmint and catmint. The wine shows more maturity than
the straight moelleux, but still has lovely balance and racy acidity. The
flavour of mint pervades the palate too. This also has many years still
ahead of it. (10/09)
The words ‘1ère Trie’ were written onto
the label by Philippe Foreau himself for this limited super cuvée.
Polished. Deep orange-gold. The initial impression on the nose is of
barley sugar, with obvious deep concentration and richness. In truth, the
concentration is almost too intense, taking it slightly out of balance.
The palate is heavy and weighty, fully ripe and showing botrytis, but with
still the same lovely persistent thread of acidity running through the
wine. This is still lively and very long, but lacks the clean-cut quality
of the Moelleux Réserve. (10/09)
VOUVRAY
- DOMAINE HUET
At Domaine
Huet, token sec and demi-sec
were made but, understandably, this is a year to focus on the various
expressions of moelleux.
This vintage delivered the first ever release of the now legendary Cuvée Constance, named in honour of Gaston Huet’s mother. The 1989 consists of the first and last pressings of the Le Mont 1ere Trie, blended with the two experimental wines from vineyards then in conversion to biodynamic farming. As previously mentioned, there was very little botrytis this vintage due to the hot and dry conditions, however Cuvée Constance was harvested, at 5hl/ha, from berries affected only by noble rot. Whilst the wine is faultless (Michael Broadbent MW wrote 1991 that it was ‘The most perfect Loire wine I have ever tasted’ and awarded it six (out of five) stars), I do continue to question whether this cuvée is a true representation of the appellation or the vintage, as once this level of botrytis is achieved, the resulting wine begins to loose its sense of place behind the enormous levels of concentration.
1989
Le Haut-Lieu Sec
Bright. Pale straw. This is barely evolved, either in
appearance or on the nose, which is still tight and reductive. The palate
is also very tight with more reductive elements. The wine hasn’t aged
and probably never will. Tight, even severe, on the finish with a chalky
texture. Drink up. (10/09)
ANJOU-SAUMUR
A minor flight of two modest wines.
Polished. Very pale, still green hues to the rim. The nose
is clean but rustic and old fashioned. Typical floral Chenin nose that is
just beginning to tire. It is light and easy on the palate with quite firm
acidity. A true demi-sec that will be preserved by the freshness of the
acidity, but is best drunk now. This won’t improve any further. (10/09)
COTEAUX
DU LAYON, QUARTS DE CHAUME AND BONNEZEAUX
Tragically,
this proved to be the most disappointing flight of the whole tasting and
raised concerns about the variable quality and questions of some of the
fairly primitive winemaking practices used at the time. The wines of
Domaine Terrebrune, then under the control of the late René Renou were,
sadly, the greatest disappointment off all, with each of the three wines
tasted being well beyond their sell by dates. The Domaine des Baumard
wines showed true to their house style, and were still very youthful and
barely evolved, but it
was the relatively unknown Domaine Banchereau with their Coteaux du Layon
Chaume, ‘Cuvée Privilege’ that was the stand-out wine in this flight.
Sadly, this grower no longer exists; the vineyards being sold off and the
cellar in Saint-Aubin-de-Luigné demolished to make way for a new village
school.
Polished. Mid-depth. Yellow
with some green hints. A bit rustic, earthy and old fashioned. The aromas
of white flowers suggest this is beginning to fade. The wine has good
texture on entry, but is a bit flat and displays a simple sweetness on the
palate. Flavours of marzipan confirm this is starting to tire.
Undistinguished. Drink up. (10/09)
Luminous gold. Mid-full. One just knows this is going to
be a star wine simply from its appearance. Deep and intense nose that is
extremely complex. There are a complex array of aromas which evoke notes
of toffee apple, caramel and menthol. On the palate, one is struck by the
poise of the structure, texture and overall balance, yet the flavour
profile is equally as complex as the nose. There is a very fine linear
edge to the acidity and a persistent finish. This still has a
distinguished and very long life ahead of it. Exceptional. (10/09)
1989
Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu ‘Vieilles Vignes’, Château du Breuil
Polished. Mid-depth with a complex green-gold appearance.
The nose is quite simple and monotone, whilst the palate is well balance
but a bit one dimensional. The finish is short and clumsy. This won’t
improve and is best drunk up. (10/09)
1989
Coteaux du Layon, Moelleux, Domaine des Petits Quarts, Godineau
Polished. Mid-full. Deep yellow-gold. A little bit flat on
the nose with a simple confectionary-like sweetness. Good acidity on
entry, but lacks a little substance and flesh, with flavours of barley
sugar and caramel to the finish. Taut and quite an old fashioned style. It
could age further as the acid balance is still fine, but it is unlikely to
improve. (10/09)
1989
Coteaux du Layon ‘Clos Ste Catherine’ Domaine des Baumard
Luminous appearance. Mid-depth with flashes of
yellow-green. Typical of Baumard, this is still pale and unevolved.
Despite the complex appearance, the nose is a little monotone, with herbal
hints and a simple sweetness. The palate shows some barley sugar, but also
the same herbal and green expression, often associated with the Baumard
style. The acid balance is good and the finish appears quite dry. There is
no rush to drink this up, although it is unlikely to improve further.
(10/09)
1989
Coteaux du Layon ‘Cuvée Payon’ Domaine des Baumard
Polished. This is still quite pale for its age. Mid-depth.
Yellow, with green hints. True Baumard. There is some faint reduction on
the nose and a green/herbal character, typical of the house style. Very
good focus on entry with proper structure and length. This still has more
to offer and shouldn’t tire at any point soon. Sturdy, with good length.
Restrained and not obviously sweet. (10/09)
1989
Quarts de Chaume, Château Bellerive
Polished. Deep orange/bronze with good colour graduation
to the rim. Complex appearance. The nose appears quite lean, dry and
mineral. The palate is also taut, but also a little flat and simple, with
an underlying earthiness. Rustic, with firm acidity to the finish which
makes it seem quite dry. There is a sensation of alcohol burn to the
finish. This may well hold, but won’t improve. (10/09)
1989
Bonnezeaux ‘Malabé’ Godineau Domaine des Petits Quarts, Godineau
Luminous. Mid-full appearance. Orange-gold. Clean and
fresh on the nose, it displays good weight and structure on the palate
with a faint caramel flavour. The alcohol shows a little on the finish,
but this could be expected to age and possibly evolve further. (10/09)
Mid-depth appearance. Shows some maturity but retains some green
hints. Delicate nose but shows the ripeness of the vintage. Mature Chenin-like
nose with faint hints of nuts and honey. Delicate praline flavour to the
entry and the finish. There is obvious residual sugar; this is more like a
petit moelleux. Very delicate with good balance and decent length.
No rush to drink. A nice surprise. This bottle was drunk at the Hotel
Grand Monarque in Chartres where it was on the list at a staggering 19
Euros. (05/10)
1989
Coteaux du
Vendômois Rouge, Domaine Jean Martellière
There is
Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend, along with Pineau d’Aunis and a little
Pinot Noir. Bright. Mid full with some garnet hints. Very good mature
graduation to the rim. This still shows some good fruit to the nose.
Broad, and slightly smoky and savoury. Distinctly ‘organic’ nose, and
the profile is more like a Cahors or other south west red. The palate is
still dense and square and lacks real structure. There is still fruit on
the palate, but the tannins are dry and noticeable. This might come good,
but the tannins might outlive the fruit. Juicy acidity. (12/08)
1989 Savennières ‘Cuvée
Madame’ Domaine du Closel
Polished. Mid-depth yellow with youthful green hints. Very attractive,
open, rich and complex nose. Smokey, terpene, mineral. Faintly rustic and
old fashioned in style. On the palate, it shows white flowers and
marzipan. This is gentle and mature but retains a good mineral expression.
The riper conditions of the vintage show through. This is something as a
surprise. Still in very good condition and there is no rush to drink this
up. (04/08)
1989 Savennières
’Clos
du Papillon' Domaine du Closel
Mid-depth. Hints of orange. Mature nose, but gently complex. Open and
expressive. The palate appears much fresher and cleaner, retaining good
focus and structure. Builds nicely, with very good balance. There is some
flint or reductive character. Elegant and understated style. Authentic and
faintly pithy on the finish. This is still in very good condition and
there is no rush to drink. This note is lifted from a tasting of Clos du
Papillon 1988 to 2007 tasted at the domaine (02/10)
1989 Savennières – Roche aux
Moines, Domaine aux Moines
Very deep, mature orange-brown appearance. Sadly tired and oxidised nose
with a savoury, vegetal, onion-like nose. Dried out and past its best.
(04/08)
1989 Savennières ‘Clos du
Papillon’, Domaine de Baumard
Polished. Deep yellow/green. Broad, rich and complex gunflint/reductive
nose. The tertiary notes are greater than the primary fruits. Solid and
powerful, this is almost more akin to Alsatian Tokay-Pinot Gris than
Chenin. Concentrated, but lacks a bit of acidity. Well textured the (15%)
alcohol shows a little on the finish. Pithy, grapefruit edge. Drinking
now, but could evolve further. (04/08)
1989 Savennières Clos de Coulaine
Polished. Mid-depth. Orange-gold. Mature nose with a
savoury edge. Madeira-like and a little cheesy and earthy and starting to
look tired. Marmite too on the nose. Mid-full on entry. Rich and rounded,
with more savoury flavours. Intense and persistent, it is distinctly
mature and shows some ripeness with noticeable alcohol on the finish. It
feels a bit ‘hot’. Mature and needs drinking up. (04/09)
Bibliography:
The Vine # 70 – (November 1990) – 1989 Chinon ‘A
Wine Worthy of Rabelais’ – Clive Coates MW
Vintage Wine – Michael Broadbent MW (2002 Websters)
Vintage Timecharts - Jancis Robinson MW (1989 Mitchell Beazley)