Vincent and Catherine Ogereau, Domaine Ogereau (2002)  

The Ogereaus have been established in St-Lambert-du-Lattay for four generations now, and the current incumbent, Vincent is a talented and intellectual grower as well as being an accomplished musician. The family work 20 hectares of vines around the commune and have been active in Savennières since 2002, renting existing vineyards near the Moulin de Beaupréau from Baron Brincard. Vincent is currently in the process of buying a second parcel of ten year old vines (which he currently rents) in Le Grande Hamé from Emile Benon. The average yields to date have been between 30 and 35 hl/ha, with Vincent looking to harvest just before the onset of botrytis.

Wine Overview:  
The two parcels are vinified apart using natural yeasts in older 400 litre demi-muids and aged in the same vessels for between 15 and 18 months. The wines are then blended, often with a small tank fermented component to add back some freshness. Malolactic is not systematic and may be partial. Where it is utilised, such as in 2004 and 2005, it occurs naturally. 

The Wines:  
Ogereau’s Savennières appear to drink deliciously well on release, although it concerns me that they seem to fall over within four or five years of the vintage. Let’s hope that the more recent releases are more durable as he is clearly one of the leading Layon growers to have established a foothold in the appellation.  

2008 ‘Clos du Grand Beaupréau’  
Open, attractive and immediate on the nose, but blurred by the mask of soft vanilla oak. Impressive, but it lacks a sense of place. The palate follows a similar course, although with greater definition. More structured and mineral. Very good weight and concentration. Approachable now, but should keep a few more years given the structure, but also may mature quickly given the flavour profile and the wood handling. (02/10) 

2006 ‘Clos du Grand Beaupréau’  
Mid depth. Straw/yellow. Attractive, rich and open. Broad and ripe with flavours of honey. Well defined. Some evidence of oak on the nose. Fresh and lively on entry. Well structured with a solid, mineral edge. Juicy but with real flesh. Powerful yet harmonious. Very good structure that builds well. Honeycomb and brioche. The alcohol shows a little. Faintly oxidative style. This offers instant gratification, but should go for another five years. Very good. (02/08)

2005 ‘Clos du Grand Beaupréau’  
Bright. Pale straw appearance. Less evolved than the above and more mineral on the nose with a faintly lactic, rice pudding element. Broad and less complex than the 2006 at this stage. Good acid structure although less flesh. A lighter style, but with good freshness and balance. Delicate on the finish with a nice kick of citrus acidity. This is drinking now, but may develop a little further. (02/08)

2004 ‘Clos du Grand Beaupréau’  
Bright. Concentrated yellow/gold. Some oxidation showing on the nose and looking a bit tired. Broad, with white flowers on the nose; evidence of advanced maturity. Mid full entry. A bit one dimensional, but retains a good structure. It is just a bit heavy handed and lacks finesse, falling a bit short on the finish. Nicely textured, although the alcohol shows a little. Spicy, honeyed finish. Unlikely to develop further. (02/08)

2003 ‘Clos du Grand Beaupréau’  
Deep yellow/gold. Almost Vin Jaune like appearance. Broad and advanced nose. Rich but flat and one dimensional. Broad on entry and looking tired on the palate. Oxidation shows here. Blunt and short. Needs drinking up. Clumsy and flat on the finish. This is tiring quickly. Drink up. (02/08)

2002 ‘Clos du Grand Beaupréau’  
Bright. Deep, mature appearance. Orange/gold. Oily, waxy and terpine nose with some minerality behind. Distinctly mature. Flat on entry and looking tired. The fruit has dried out. Oxidative character. Orange skin flavours. Acidity is still very firm, but now lacking the flesh to balance it out. Drink up. (02/08)

Vincent Ogereau  
Domaine Ogereau  
St Lambert du Lattay  
T: + 33 2 41 78 43 55  
domaine.ogereau@wanadoo.fr  
 

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