Loïc
Mahe, Domaine du Gué d’Orger (2005)
A first-generation vigneron, 43
year old Loïc Mahe was born in Brittany. He studied agriculture in Angers
and worked as an agricultural advisor before getting into wine in 2001. He
worked his apprenticeship with Damien Laureau in Frémur before starting
up his own domaine in the same cellar after Laureau vacated it early in
2007. In addition to renting vines from the 2005 vintage in Les Fougeraies
and Le Gabillard, he has also been producing Anjou Villages-Brissac and
Coteaux de l’Aubance from vines rented in Mozé-sur-Louet since 2001.
Wines
Overview:
From
his two parcels in Savennières, he plans to make two cuvées; ‘Les
Fougeraies’ which comes from a part of the vineyard known locally as Le
Parc, and ‘Equilibre’ based on fruit from Le Gabillard. In 2005, he
actually made three wines, including one experimental cuvée of 1,100
bottles called ‘Sectilus Terra’. In 2006, both sites were blended to
make a single release. All the wines pass through older barrels as well as
spending time in epoxy tanks.
The
Wines:
Mahe
is a producer to watch. Fortunate enough to start with a gift of a vintage
in 2005, the wines produced from the subsequent difficult year are equally
impressive. The experimental ‘Selectus Terra’ 2005 deserves to be in
any serious Chenin lover’s cellar.
2009
'Les Fougeraies'
Proper, restrained nose. Still quite primary. Good balance, weight and
concentration. Honest and authentic, taut and linear. Approachable now but
could benefit with more time in bottle. Approachable with very good
freshness to the finish. (02/11)
2005
‘L’Equilibre’
From vines planted on schist soils in 2000. Only 11hl/ha and aged for 11
months in barrel. Deep appearance. Deep and proper on the nose with a good
thread of minerality. Still a little closed, but serious and shows intent.
Floral and faintly oxidative with notes of quince. Solid and concentrated
on entry, it has a saline edge and a very good sense of schist-like
minerality running through the wine. This is just approachable, but will
develop and improve further. Very good. 1,900 bottles produced. (02/10)
2005
‘Les Fougeraies’
Ten
months in oak. Pale. Yellow/straw. Ripe on the nose and shows a little
wood. The palate is much more linear and restrained. Great minerality and
acid balance. Taut. Chalky textured with a white flower flavour. The
finish is a little hot. Ideally, this needs time to evolve although is
approachable now. (02/08)
2005
‘L’Equilibre’
Tasted
from tank, this spent 24 months in barrel. Part malolactic. Bottled
February 2008. Mid depth. Straw/yellow. Mineral nose. Taut. Very fresh
with linear acidity on the palate. Attractive with some honeyed notes. The
wood currently shows a little. Very good mineral character with some
citrus. The acidity carries
the finish. This should be good for a decade or more. (02/08)
2005
‘Selectus Terra’
Loic
Mahe
La
Piquellerie
Ste
Gemmes sur Loire
T:
+33 6 14 76 66 01
F:
+33 2 41 48 01 63
gue.dorger@wanadoo.fr