Wining,
Dining and Sleeping in the Loire
Berry
Bourges
Cathedral
Bourges
Bourges is a lovely old cathedral
town conveniently situated just off the main north-south autoroute that
connects Paris with Clermont-Ferrand and Montpellier. It also makes an ideal
base for exploring the vineyards of Sancerre, Pouilly-sur-Loire and Menetou-Salon
to the east (it's about a 40 minute drive to Sancerre from here) and Reuilly
and Quincy just to the west.
Hotel-Restaurant - de Bourbon / l'Abbaye Saint-Ambroix
Boulevard de la République
T: + 33 2 48 70 70 00
F: + 33 2 48 70 21 22
www.hoteldebourbon.fr
www.abbayesaintambroix.fr
contact@hoteldebourbon.fr
contact@abbayesaintambroix.fr
This large hotel is operated by the Mercure group and is situated in
an ancient abbey just on the ring road. It's a convenient stop-off point and
from here it is an easy five minute walk into the town. Despite its origins,
the rooms are very well appointed and up to date with air conditioning.
The
restaurant, is located
within the old chapel which has been sympathetically restored. The food is
here is of a high standard (although it sadly lost its Michelin star in 2010
- clearly the Michelin Men don't believe hotel chains have a right to such
accolades), with a menu centred on dishes of the Berry with
some modern twists. The wine list is extensive with plenty of examples from
the appellations of the Berry and elsewhere along the Loire, although
vintages tend to be fairly current (save for some old examples of Cotat -
for which one should expect to pay a hefty premium for). Expensive, but
recommended.
Just
try and avoid staying on Monday and Tuesday when the restaurant reinvents
itself as the 'Carré Bourbon', with a basic menu and disappointingly, one
cannot even access the full wine list.
(Last stayed: 01/11 and dined: 03/10)
Hotel -
Le Christina
5 Rue de la Halle
T: + 33 2 48 70 56 50
F: + 33 2 48 70 58 13
www.le-christina.com
An inexpensive, five story high hotel with 71 rooms that overlooks the
Halle de Blé. It's architecture is a bit of a legacy of the 1970s. Some
rooms have been recently refurbished. It's clean enough and suitable for
an overnight stay, but operates more as a business hotel than one suitable
for tourism. (Last stayed: 05/06)
Hotel -
D'Angleterre
5 Place Quatre-Piliers
T: + 33 2 48 24 68 51
F: + 33 2 48 65 21 41
www.bestwestern-angleterre-bourges.com
The D'Angleterre is the number two hotel in Bourges after the
Bourbons. It has 31 rooms and is situated in a quiet spot in the centre of
town.
Café
-Restaurant - Le Comptoir de Paris
Jerôme Philippe
1 Rue Jean Girard
Place Gordaine
T: + 33 2 48 24 17 16
Situated in one of the historic squares of Bourges, Jerôme Philippe
returned to his native Berry in 2009 to open this Parisian style bistro
after several years working in the capital. The food is simple, but well
executed (one of the best steak-frites I've eaten in France). The
wine list is basically off a blackboard but there is lots of choice by the
glass with all of the local appellations covered. The very friendly and
hospitable Philippe also serves two or three beers on tap and has an
eclectic taste in music. Inexpensive and very highly recommended. (Last
dined 01/11)
Restaurant -
Le Piet à Terre
Thierry Finet
44 Boulevard Lahitolle
(Access from Place Malus)
T/F: + 33 2 48 67 95 60
contact@lepietaterre.fr
www.lepietaterre.fr
One
of two Michelin starred restaurants in Bourges, this restaurant is
situated in an old maison bourgeois which overlooks the military
academy. The decor is very modern French with an African influence (as is
the background music), but well executed and with some interesting metals
structures in the gardens. The food is here is both clever and inventive
without being compromised (as is so often the case). As is the want with
many Michelin chefs, there is a battery of pre-dinner, mid-dinner and
pre-desserts, which echo the menu in their ingenuity. There is a lot of
Asiatic influence in the cuisine too. The wine list is well chosen and
whilst not necessarily focused on the Berry, has a very good list of
top-end Loire producers. Service is precise and attentive without being
over-bearing. Closed Sunday evening and Monday, plus most of January and
August. Very highly recommended. (Last dined 05/10)
Restaurant -
Le Jardin Gourmand
Christian Chauveau
15 bis Avenue Ernest Reman
T: + 33 2 48 21 35 91
F: + 33 2 48 20 59 75
www.jardingourmand.fr
Just
opposite from Le Piet à Terre and also within another maison
bourgeois, is Le Jardin Gourmand. The house was once owned by Georges
Forrest, inventor of the the Forestine, a local specialty bon-bon.
The restaurant is split between about four separate rooms which allows for
large parties to be removed from the more discrete diners. Whilst the food
is pedestrian and the service, controlled by Mme. Chauveau, is lacking,
the wine list is outstanding in both quality and price; it's possible to
drink Second Growth Claret from some of the best vintages of the 1980s for
less than the current auction price. Bordeaux is extensively represented,
as is Burgundy, although this section of the list suffers from a lack of
growers names. Madame also happens to hail from a family of vignerons
from the Jura; the wines of her brothers domaine, Overnoy-Crinquand in
Pupillin, are excellent. Despite the average food, prices are modest for
an establishment of this stature, and its a restaurant well patronised by
the locals. Closed Sunday night, Monday and Tuesday for lunch, also mid
December to mid January and most of July. Recommended - if only for the
wine list. (Last dined: 06/10).
Restaurant - Le
Bourbonnoux
44 rue Bourbonnoux
T: + 33 2 48 24 14 76
F: + 33 2 48 24 77 67
www.bourbonnoux.com
This restaurant is one of several situated on the cobbled street that
ambles up towards the cathedral. It's typically Berrichone, serving
traditional dishes such as Berry lentil and crottin salad. The decor is a
little faded, but it remains a popular place with locals and business
visitors alike. The food is capable if a little predictable. The wine list
is decent with all the local appellations represented. There is also a
good selection of wines from other French regions, including the
occasional oddity, like Vin Jaune from the Jura. Service is led by a
slightly dictatorial madame, although with the best intentions. Closed
Sunday dinner, Friday and Saturday lunch, plus mid August to mid
September. Decent and well priced, but if you are in the town for a
limited time, there are better options. (Last dined: 06/10)
Restaurant - Le
Savoyard
40 rue Bourbonnoux
T: + 33 2 48 57 27
Le Savoyard is next door but one to Le Bourbonnoux. As the name
suggests, the focus here is more alpine cuisine, based on Fondues,
Raclette and Tartiflette and portions are copious, so go hungry. Basic and
inexpensive. Popular with locals, especially at the weekend. Best book in
advance. Closed Sunday lunch and Monday. (Last dined: 02/10)
Restaurant - Le
d'Antan Sancerrois
Stéphane Rétief
50 rue Bourbonnoux
T: + 33 2 48 65 96 26
F: + 33 2 48 70 50 82
www.dantansancerrois.com
dantan.sancerrois@wanadoo.fr
The
second Michelin star rated restaurant in Bourges. Whilst set in an ancient
building, this internal design is very much 21st Century. The cooking here
is modern-classic, but neither fancy or over-challenging. There is a good
wine list, with the Loire particularly well represented. Service is
friendly and relaxed. Closed Sunday and Monday and August. Recommended.
(Last dined: 02/10)
Restaurant - Beauvoir
1 Avenue Marx-Dornay
T: + 33 2 48 65 42 44
F: + 33 2 48 24 80 84
www.restaurantbeauvoir.com
Beauvoir
is found to the east of the town, but within walking distance of the
centre. We dined there, on a cold, snowy, mid-week evening in January and
were the only diners. The cuisine here is classic French and well
executed. There is a very good wine list, which includes a useful
selection of half bottles. Service was, as would be expected when you're
the only table in the house, attentive. Closed Sunday nights and August.
Recommended. (Last dined: 01/10)
Restaurant - Le
Cosmopolitan
2 Place des 4-Pillars
T: + 33 2 48 66 42 20
This
corner restaurant opened in 2009. It's to be found opposite the Hôtel
d'Angleterre. I haven't yet dined here. Open for lunch and dinner between
Tuesday to Saturday (and Monday too in the summer).
Restaurant - Le
Jacques Coeur
3 Place Jacques Coeur
T: + 33 2 48 26 53 01
restaurant.lejacquescoeur@hotmail.com
www.restaurantjacquescoeur.com
Opened
in 2008 by Stéphane and Claudine Philippon, this formal looking
restaurant is located, unsurprisingly, opposite the Palais Jacques Coeur.
I haven't yet dined here. Closed all day on Sunday and on Monday and
Saturday lunch.
Restaurant - La
Scala
1 Place Planchat
T: + 33 2 48 24 08 85
boac@wanadoo.fr
This
typical Italian restaurant is located in an ancient half-timbered house in
the centre of Bourges. It's a busy place and popular with local family
groups. The food is serviceable without frills or fuss and offers no great
surprises. Inexpensive. Open seven days a week. (Last dined: 02/10)
Restaurant - La
Pataterie
Route de la Charité
T: + 33 2 48 66 36 63
www.lapataterie.com
This
group of franchised restaurants numbers thirty plus throughout France.
It's basically one-hundred-and-one-ways to cook a potato. But I have to
admit it works, and the quality of the main ingredient is surprisingly
good. Portions are copious. The restaurant is situated (as are most of the
others in the chain) on the edge of town in a retail park. The place, even
in January, is packed with happy lunch time diners. Recommended as a
winter warmer. Inexpensive. Open seven days a week for lunch and dinner.
(Last dined: 01/10)
Retail
opportunity - Maison des Forestines
3 Place Cujas
T: + 33 2 48 24 00 24
forestines@orange.fr
Opened
in 1884 by Georges Forrest, creator of the Forestine, a semi-hard bon-bon
that is now very much seen as a local speciality. The sweets come in a
variety of different colours and flavours. Closed on Sunday and Monday
morning.
Hotel
- Château de Lazenay
Rue de la Vernusse (next to the lac d'Auron)
T: + 33 2 48 20 04 04
F: + 33 2 48 67 99 39
www.chateaulazenay.fr
Outside
of the town, about a 10 minute drive to the south, this relatively new
hotel is situated in an old manor house overlooking the Lac d'Auron, a man
made lake used, primarily, as a leisure facilities for would-be mariners.
There are 20 apartment style rooms and offers free wi-fi access. Whilst in
a very quiet and tranquil location, it does mean driving into town for
dinner. Well priced.
Sancerre
Hotel – Le Panoramic
Ramparts des Augustins
T: +33 2 48 54 22 44
F: +33 2 48 54 39 55
panoramichotel@wanadoo.fr
www.panormicotel.com
Although something of a bed factory of a hotel, the
Panoramic is situated within a five minute walk of the centre of Sancerre.
Half of its 60 rooms offer spectacular vineyard views over Chavignol, but
you need to request one of these when booking. The hotel was purchased a
few years ago by négociant Guy Saget from across the river in Pouilly-sur-Loire
when it was refirbished. There is also a
useful outdoor swimming pool which also overlooks the vines.
Restaurant – Les
Augustins
113 Ramparts des Augustins
T: +33 2 48 54 01 44
F:
+ 33 2 48 54 13 60
contact@restaurant-traiteur-lesaugustins.com
www.restaurant-traiteur-lesaugustins.com
Literally adjoining the Hotel Panoramic, but run as
a separate business. The menu is here is focused on the cuisine of the
Hotel – Le
Clos Saint-Martin
10 Rue Saint-Martin
T: +33 2 48 54 21
11
F: +33 2 48 54 17
50
reception@leclos-saintmartin.com
www.leclos-saintmartin.com
This
is the second hotel to be opened in the centre of Sancerre (in 2009) by
the Pouilly négociant, Guy Saget; the other being the Panoramic, above.
Its 41 rooms are completely up to date and, unlike its sister
hotel, offers
complimentary wi-fi access. For the moment, the rooms are well priced and
this likely to be my hotel of choice when passing through the town,
although unfortunately to date the hotel has remained closed in the
off-season. (Last
time stayed: 06/10)
Restaurant – Auberge
la Pomme d’Or
Sancerre
T:
+33 2 48 54 13 30
F:
+33 2 48 54 19 22
A tiny, yet well established restaurant on a side
street at the rear of the town. With only about eight or so tables and the
owners keeping irregular hours, it is essential to book in advance. The
menu is small and both seasonal and regional with the wine list focusing
on producers from the
Restaurant – La
Tour
Nouvelle Place
Sancerre
T: +33 2 48 54 00 81
F: +33 2 48 54 01 54
info@la-tour-sancerre.fr
Situated in the main square in the town, La Tour is
the most formal (and expensive) of all the dining options in and around
Sancerre. The menu concentrates on local dishes and changes little between
the seasons. Service can be a little stuffy, but the food is very good
and, as one would expect, there is a fine selection of wines from
Sancerre. The rest of the Loire list is a little predictable, but for
those not intent on drinking within the region, there is a good selection
of wines from other regions of
Restaurant – Auberge
Joseph Mellot
Sancerre
T/F: +33 2 48 54 20 53
josephmellot@josephmellot.com
www.josephmellot.com
Also found in the main square, next to the plethora
of touristic wine shops, is the simple bistro of Sancerre wine producer,
Joseph Mellot. The food is here is based on regional platters with the
growers wines being served alongside.
Restaurant – La
Collina
10 Place Connetable
Sancerre
T:
+33 2 48 54 11 16
This very simple pizzeria is situated right at the
very top of the town in what looks like the owners house. You can enjoy a
decent plate of pasta, and pizzas are cooked in a wood burning oven.
Expect industrial-style Italian wines on the very modest list. The rather
gruff English speaking Italian owner also does take-away, but doesn’t do
credit cards, so ensure you go with cash.
(Last dined: 01/08)
Sancerre
T: +33 2 48 54 16 50
F: +33 2 48 54 01 54
This modest pizzeria, creperie and bar is situated
beneath the Restaurant La Tour. It serves pizzas, salads and the usual
Berrichone fare. Whilst it does offer a selection of different grower
Sancerre by the the food is pretty poor. Inexpensive but certainly not
recommended. (Last dined 01/11).
290
rue du Serre-Coeur
Sancerre
T: +33 2 48 54
18 77
www.legrillsancerrois.com
Situated
on one of the corners of the roundabout as one enters the town, it's hard
to miss. Following a year or so of closure, this one local institution reopened its doors in 2009.
Retail Opportunity – Brasserie
Sancerroise
258 rue d’Amigny
Sancerre
T: +33 2 48 54 29 91
www.brasserie-sancerroise.com
A great micro-brewery situated on the edge of the
town producing a range of interesting and excellent beers, many of which
are available in the various bars and restaurants around Sancerre.
Hotel/Restaurant –
La Côte des Monts Damnés
Chavignol
T: +33 2 48 54 01 72
F: +33 2 48 54 14 24
contact@montsdamnes.com
www.montsdamnes.com
La Côte des Monts Damnés takes its name from the
notorious hillside vineyard in Chavignol. It is owned and operated by
Jean-Marc Bourgeois, son of Jean-Marie and brother of Arnaud, and whose
wines are a point of reference within the Sancerre appellation. You will
find the Bourgeois cellars just up the road. The boutique hotel, with its
twelve individually themed rooms is a recent addition, as is the trendy
new bistro offering simple regional dishes. The existing and more formal
‘restaurant gastronomique’ has been moved to the rear of the building.
This is a good base for anyone wanting to explore the region for a couple
of days and is happy to dine in situ. The food in the formal restaurant is
as good as any in the region and the wine list can be commended for
displaying a good representation of grower Sancerre alongside the Domaine
Henri Bourgeois selection. Expect to find Jean-Marie propping up the bar
with a collection of other locals when not at his holiday retreat on the
Restaurant – Au
Fin Chavignol
T:
+ 33 2 48 54 20 63
Run by Raymonde Pascal, wife of local vigneron,
Pascal. This modest eatery is located in a two wood panelled roomed house
in the centre of the village. It’s a popular and busy place for lunch
and it is best to phone ahead and reserve one of the ten tables. This food
is unpretentious and doesn’t venture much further than serving simple
salads and omelettes and the ubiquitous Crottin de Chavignol. Closed
Monday and Tuesday and Madame doesn’t take credit cards. Recommended.
(Last time dined: 12/08)
Retail
Chavignol
T:
+33 2 48 54 15 69
F:
+33 2 48 54 38 93
www.dubois-boulay.fr
Any visit to Sancerre would be incomplete without a
stop at this fourth generation cheese affineur
in the centre of the village producing the local Crottin de Chavignol.
Saint Satur
Hotel/Restaurant – Le
Laurier
29 Rue du Commerce
T: +33 2 48 54 17 20
F:
+33 2 48 54 04 54
Bossley18@orange.fr
You will find this modest Logis on the one-way
system as you drive between Sancerre and the river. The hotel changed
hands in 2007 and although the new owners have retained the essence of the
previous menu, the food was not as satisfying on my last visit here.
Expect good hearty Berrichone dishes and a modest wine list. I have never
stayed in the hotel.
Bar/Restaurant – La
Fontaine
97
Avenue de la Grande Fontaine
T/F: +33 2 48 54
22
31
brasserie.restaurant.la.fontaine@orange.fr
Daniel and Roselyne Genod run this popular little bar and
restaurant that specialises in grilled meat cooked on an open fire, fueled
by vine cuttings, in the centre of dining room. It's a good place to grab
a quick steak-frites during a busy day visiting growers.
Inexpensive and recommended. Open every day except Wednesday evenings. (Last dined: 02/10)
Saint-Thibault
Hotel – Hotel de la Loire
2 Quai de la Loire
Saint-Thibault
T:
+33 2 48 78 22 22
F:
+33 2 48 78 22 29
Hotel_de_la_loire@hotmail.com
www.hotel-de-la-loire.com
You will find the Hotel de la Loire right next to
the bridge that traverses the river. It’s a busy route and it can get
noisy, so it is important that you try and get a room (call me xenophobic,
but I recommend ‘English’ towards the rear of the building) which also
have excellent views over the river. All the rooms were individually
themed by Carla, the previous owner. It is a good base for exploring both
sides of the river, and although there is no restaurant, there are a
couple of dining options within walking distance.
Restaurant – Au
Bord de Loire
2 Quai de la Loire
Saint-Thibault
T:
+33 2 48 54 12 15
This was obviously the riverside terrace for the
Hotel de la Loire at one stage, but is now run as a separate enterprise.
This is a modest little cabin right on the river which is a good place for
a simple lunch of salad and friture
de la
Restaurant – L’Auberge
de Saint-Thibault
37 rue J. Combes
Saint-Thibault
T:
+33 2 46 78 04 10
You will find this modest eatery on a side street
off the main road between Sancerre and the bridge over the
Elga and Arnaud Danthu
7 rue des Ponts
Saint-Thibault
T:
+33 2 48 54 12 28
You probably wouldn’t give this provençal looking
building a second glance when driving past, but behind there is an
attractive terrace for summer dining. The menu here is based on local
dishes and changes on a regular basis. The wine list is better than
average with some good local growers represented.
Ménétréol-sous-Sancerre
Restaurant – Le
Floroine
T:
+33 2 48 54 02 74
www.le.floroine.com
There are a couple of bars and restaurants that run
alongside the canal in the village. Le Floroine is a popular lunch time
haunt of local businessmen and wine growers alike. It offers three
courses; a buffet starter of crudité and paté, followed by the plat de jour and cheese or dessert, served with a bottle of gros
rouge. Authentic and inexpensive.
Verdigny
Restaurant – Gîte – Auberge du Vigneron
Rue Saint-Vincent
T: + 33 2 48 79 38 68
F: + 33 2 48 79 29 82
Just a five minute drive from Sancerre, Verdigny is
littered by some famous vinous names of the region and Jean-Pierre
Raimbault, who run this simple auberge with his wife Maryline, originates
from the local winemaking dynasty of the same name. The restaurant is
situated in an old farmhouse in the centre of the village. The food is
copious and homely, with a selection of local classic dishes, such as tête
de veau (or viau in
Berrichone). There is a small selection wines dominated by half a dozen
local growers, including Daniel Chotard. There are also a few rooms in
which to stay.
(Last dined: 12/08)
Hotel/Restaurant - Le
Relais Fleuri Coq Hardi
42 Avenue de la Tuilerie
T: +33 3 86 39 12 99
F:
+33 3 86 39 14 15
Le-relais-fleuri-sarl@wanadoo.fr
www.lecoqhardi.fr
Given the wealth of dining opportunities across the
river in Sancerre, there is a dearth of decent eateries in Pouilly.
You’ll find this pleasant roadside auberge opposite the co-operative
heading south out of the town. I’ve never stayed in any of its rooms
with their 'creaking floorboards and giants' wardrobes', but have eaten
relatively well in their relatively formal dining
room. In the summer there is the opportunity to dine on the terrace. The
food is mostly locally inspired, with plenty of fish on the menu, and
there is also a decent wine list. Apparently, the chef-patron worked for
29 years at the London Ritz.
Cosne-sur-Loire
Restaurant - Le
Chat
Place
du Chat
42 Rue des Guérins
Villechaud
T: +33 3 86 28
49 03
I haven't yet eaten here, but it comes recommended
from a trustworthy source.
Reuilly
With the recent opening of the autoroute to
Quincy
Restaurant - Le Firmament
Route de Vierzon
T: + 33 2 48 51 30 35
F: + 33 2 48 51 35 11
sarl@restaurantlefirmament.com
Le Firmament is the only dining option in the village. You'll find it
situated on the road to Brinay. As well as a decent lunchtime hostelry, Le
Firmament doubles up as a function venue. The food is classic Berrichone
coupled with some French staples, such as confit de canard. The wine list is
made up mostly of local producers. Perfectly decent, even if the service can
be a little slow and chaotic. (Last dined: 06/10)
Brinay
Bar-Restaurant
- Auberge des As
Le Bourg
T: + 33 2 48 51 08 65
This typical bar doubles up as a workers retreat where it serves a no
choice Menu du Jour each lunchtime. Basic and serviceable. (Last dined:
06/10)
Gîte
- La Chagnat
Gérard et Catherine Bignonneau
T: + 33 2 48 48 00 18
This renowned grower in Quincy has two self catering cottages
available for rent on their farm. Isolated at the back of the commune, the
property is surrounded by cereal plains.
Gîte
- Le Tremblay
Jean Tatin et Chantal Wilk
T: + 33 2 48 75 20 09
Literally next to the Bigonneau homestead, is that of fellow vignerons,
Jean Tatin and Chantal Wilk. The self catering cottage here occupies one
corner of an ancient Berrichone farm.
Gîte
- Château de Brinay
Jacques et Stéphanie Beaudon
Route de Quincy
T: + 33 2 48 51 38 31
P: + 33 6 74 78 14 49
www.chateaudebrinay.fr
This self catering cottage sleeps up to eight people and is situated
in the old stables of the lovely château.
Diou
Restaurant
- L'Aubergeade
Jacky Patron
Route d'Issoudin
T: + 33 2 54 49 22 28
F: + 33 2 54 49 27 48
patronjacky.j@free.fr
Diou is the southern-most commune of the Reuilly appellation. This
little roadside auberge is well worth searching out. The menu is relatively
limited, but makes good use of seasonal ingredients. The cuisine is
certainly very competent and has a strong local influence. There is a very
good wine list which incorporates a few local wines, but the strength lies
with the top wines that patron Jacky has sourced from some of the Loire's
top sources. This is a worthy restaurant. Moderately priced. Closed Sunday
and Wednesday evenings. (Last dined 05/10)
Issoudun
Hotel-Restaurant – Les
3 Rois
3 rue Pierre Brossolette
T:
+33 2 54 21 00 65
F:
+33 2 54 21 50 61
Legend has it that Richard the Lionheart stayed here
in 1189 en-route to the third crusade. Richard the Kelley certainly
hasn’t, but I did once eat in the restaurant. The menu is based on
hearty regional cuisine, but the wine list offers something of a
challenge. Legend also has it there are 16 rooms.
Hotel-Restaurant – La Cognette
T: +33 2 54 03 59 59
F: +33 2 54 03 13 03
lacognette@wanadoo.fr
This one star Michelin apparently has a great wine
list. Sadly, when I was there the restaurant was closed for its annual
post-Christmas vacance. However,
I did get to stay in one of their basic rooms which are situated in a
separate building close by. I suspect that unless you are dining here then
staying here is pretty pointless.
(Last stayed: 01/04)
Châteauroux
Restaurant – Le
P'tit Bouchon
64
Rue Grande
T: +33 2 54
61 50 40
F: +33 2 54 03 13
30
leptitbouchon@free.fr
www.leptitbouchon.fr
The
town of Châteauroux is at the southern extreme of the Berry but serves as a
useful stop off point for anyone heading north of south along the A20 auto
route, about an hours drive from the vineyards of Reuilly and Quincy. This
busy and proper little brasserie serves good, honest food sourced locally
(the Andouillettes de Reuilly are particularly recommended). The list
is small and all chalked up on a blackboard, but is well chosen and there is
a good selection by the glass. The service is brisk and attentive, and the
owner clearly knows his wine and is free to offer a few recommendations for
the growers he buys from. Excellent and authentic, very good value and
highly recommended. Closed Sunday and Monday, plus three weeks in
August. (Last dined: 06/10).
In
and around Châteaumeillant
Situated between the infant Cher and Indre rivers,
Châteaumeillant sits at the southern most extreme of the
Restaurant-Chambres d’Hôtes
– Le Paradis
Inke Wiersema & Cors van Koesveld
2 Clos du Pavillon
Route de La Châtre
Châteaumeillant
paradis@koesveldauparadis.com
www.koesveldauparadis.com
Opened in December 2004, this old manor house on the
edge of the town operates as a gîte
and chambres d’hôtes. Inke
and Cors are Dutch and ran a restaurant in
(Last dined: 01/09)
Hotel-Restaurant – Les Dryades
Rue du Golf
Pouligny-Notre-Dame
T: + 33 2 54 06 60 60
F: + 33 2 54 30 10 24
www.les-dryades.fr
A huge purpose built golfing estate some 10
kilometres south of La Châtre and about a fifteen minute drive to the
centre of the appellation’s vineyards. The building stands five stories
high and can be seen for miles away. It’s something of an eyesore from
the outside, an abomination of 1970s architecture, but the rooms and the
restaurant offer splendid views over the Indre valley. The rooms are
modern and clean, although the bathrooms are in dire need of an upgrade.
If spas and golf combined with a bit of wine tourism is your thing, then
this is a good base for a couple of days. The kitchens were being
refurbished when I stayed, so no comment available on the in house
restaurant. Breakfast is served on the top floor.
(Last stayed: 01/09)
Hotel-Restaurant – Auberge de la Petite Fadette
Nohant-Vic
T:
+ 33 2 54 31 01 48
F:
+ 33 2 54 31 10 19
This nine roomed auberge is situated in a pretty
hamlet, directly opposite the family home of the author George Sand, and
takes its name from the heroine of one of her novels. The restaurant is
set in a huge barn of a room with a medieval fireplace at one end and
ancient wooden beams throughout. This is obviously something of a place of
pilgrimage for lovers of Sands’ work, and prices are reflected in the
cost of the menu. The food is traditional and centred on veal, a
speciality within the region. There is an impressive wine list with some
great older bottles of
(Last dined: 01/09)
Church at Nohant
Caviste – Cave
Raffault
Eric
Raffault
6 Avenue Lion d’Argent
La Châtre
T: 33 2 54 48 01 13
Eric and Didier Raffault run this great little wine
shop just on the edge of the town. Judging by the sign outside, they also
supply the local residents with all their liquid gaz and diesel
requirements. Apart from a top selection of wines from the
Chambre
d'Hôte – Anne
de Varennes
Abbaye de Varennes
Fougerolles
T: + 33 2 54 31 33 20
P: + 33 6 60 33 86 24
www.holidayrentals.co.uk
The
Abbaye of Varennes is located in the Centre of France, La France Profonde,
along the route to St. Jacques de Compostelle from Vézelay. The abbaye
lies in the heart of the Berry region, one of the hidden treasures of
France, steeped in history, gastronomy and wine. Not far lies Nohant, the
home of George Sand, and the château of Sarzay. Just 10 kms is the town
of La Châtre where one can find the Museum of George Sand and a lively
Saturday morning market.