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Guide
to the Loire regions
Côtes
du Forez
Grower
Profiles
Cave
Réal
Brothers Stéphane
and Laurence Réal are third generation farmers who tend to dairy cattle
as well as 5.5 hectares of vineyards. Until 1999 their father delivered
grapes up to the co-opertive in Boën after which it was agreed that they
would bring their ancient basket press back into service and start to make
their own wines once more.
Their vineyard holdings are split over two communes; 2.8 hectares of Gamay
in Saint-George-Haut-Ville, which is within the delimited area of the Côtes
du Forez and incorporates the hamlet of Fontvial where the farm’s cellar
is situated. The balance are on the steep, rocky, volcanic slopes of the
Pic de Saint-Romain, an historical and religious site not covered by the
appellation. In 1998 the Réal’s were offered the opportunity to clear
the abandoned land and re-establish a vineyard here. Rather than the
traditional Gamay, they elected to plant the parcel to 1.7 hectares of
Viognier. On a separate hillside overlooking the Pic de Saint-Romain, the
Réal’s are also experimenting with 0.7ha Syrah, being the first in the
region to exploit the Vin de Pays décret
which includes it in the list of permitted varieties.
The
cellar is a makeshift building, consisting of an old hay barn and refuge
for their cattle during the winter months. It now hosts the old wooden
press and a couple of tonneau alongside the stainless steel and fibre-glass
tanks.

Saint-Romain-le-Puy
WINES :
Here they
produce a range of six wines, split equally between Vin de Pays and AC
wines. Their Côtes du Forez Aquarelle
Rosé is a simple saignée,
whilst the Côtes du Forez Aquarelle
Rouge is made from older vines and receives a 12 day maceration.
The Côtes du Forez Les Perrières comes from a lieu-dit and is vinified apart and
receives a shorter six day maceration before passing through oak for three
months before bottling.
The Vin de Pays d’Urfé Syrah Rosé was produced for the first time in 2008 and contains
10g/l residual sugar. The Vin de Pays d’Urfé Syrah Coqulicots also
debuted in 2008 and was raised in three year old barriques for 10 months.
The Vin de Pays d’Urfé Viognier Aldebertus takes its name from monk who resided at the
priory at Saint-Romain-le-Puy in the early 11th Century and who
etabablished the first vineyard there. The grapes are deliberately picked
whilst still not fully ripe, but have been allowed to develop a little
botrytis, a technique that Stéphane picked up in Condrieu (which after
all is in the same département).
This is raised in tank and in 2009 there will be two separate cuvées
released.
Wine
Overview :
There was
much excitement from other growers at the prospect of tasting the first
Syrah to be produced in the region, but whilst the wine carries decent
varietal qualities, there is a lot of work to be done before it can prove
its worth. My visit to Stéphane Réal came at the end of my three day
stint in the Forez, but unfortunately the wines failed to convince me.
Again, we were looking primarily at the weaker 2008 vintage and the 2009s
might prove to be better, but for the moment the potential still has to be
realised.
Stéphane
Réal
Fontival
Boisset-Saint-Priest
T: + 33 4 77 76 63 04
F: + 33 4 77 52 85 72
famillereal@hotmail.fr
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