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Guide
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d'Auvergne
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Annie Sauvat et Michel Blot
Annie Sauvats Grandmother came from Boudes. Widowed
early age, she sold off most of the land, so it was left to Annie’s now
retired father, Claude, to rebuild the domaine in the 1970s. She returned
to Boudes in 1987, when there were still 10 hectares of cereals (which
they still have) and just three hectares of vines. Her husband, Michel
Blot has vines in his own right, but is also the salaried vineyard manager
and winemaker for Domaine Sauvat. He hails from Brittany and was destined
to be a cider maker, but since there is no dedicated course in France he
left for oenology school in Macon, which is where the couple met. He
appears calm, balanced and questioning, describing himself as a maker of
wines, atypical of the appellation, whilst the very chatty Annie occupies
herself with sales, marketing which includes blogging on the Domaine
Sauvat website, for which she won the Salon des Loire Wine Blog Trophy in
2007 for best winemaker blogger.
The Sauvat vineyards are situated behind the cellar, on south facing
terraces which overlook the village. The planting density is low at 4,500
vines per hectare; close to the legal minimum and a legacy of decision in
the 70s to plant for the ease of mechanization over quality potential.
Today, the farm close to organic, but the soils on the steep slopes cannot
tilled for risk of erosion. There are a total of ten hectares now, made up
of Gamay (6.5ha), Pinot Noir (2.5ha) and Chardonnay (1ha). Michel’s own
0.4ha parcel of Gamay d’Auvergne and Chardonnay is in the Coteaux de
Bard on the south side of the town, with the vines planted on granite
soils, instead of the clay-limestone found on the opposing slope. At
harvest, the grapes are all hand picked and mostly destemmed on arrival at
the cellar, although this decision is not systematic.
The modern cellar was built in three stages and has a bank of stainless
steel tanks as well as a dedicated barrel room. The large, airy tasting
room has walls covered with paintings by local artists. It’s often a
busy place, as over half of their sales are to private clients.
Blot is not convinced about blending Gamay and Pinot, which partly
explains the (over) extended range. It is remarkable that they can create
so many wines from such a limited resource:
Boudes
La Roseraie
– unwooded Chardonnay with full malolactic fermentation.
Boudes
Chardonnay Bois
– barrel fermented with batonnage
for 12 months. Good commercial style
Boudes
Rosé Les Charmeuses de la Côte
– Gamay, half saignée, half pressurage
direct with a full malolactic fermentation, dry mineral, yeasty and
soft.
Boudes Gamay Les
Demoiselles Oubliées du Donazat –
light, early drinking Gamay
Boudes
La Dame de la Quaire
– This cuvee of 100% Pinot Noir, will be declassified to Vin de Pays due
to the change in legislation.
Boudes
Gamay Bois
– goes into 300 litre as soon as the fermentation is finished then aged
for 12 months. Overcooked, with too much oak showing.
Boudes
Prestige Mythique Élevage Bois
– 2005 only release of 100% Gamay
Boudes
Pinot Noir Bois
– Enjoys (or endures) the same treatment as the Gamay, spending a year
in oak, of which around 25% are new barrels.
Méthode Traditionelle Cuvée
Saint-Loup
MICHEL BLOT
Boudes
Cuvée d’Antan
– undistinguished Chardonnay raised in tank, made the same was as the
Sauvat example.
Boudes
Cuvée d’Antan
– 35 year old Gamay on soils of microgranite.
Boudes Cuvée Granit – Gamay d’Auvergne.
Vin
de Table Gourmandise d’Automne – not stated, but from the
2004 vintage. A Vendange Tardive
made from Gamay with around 65g/l residual and 14% alcohol. High-toned and
savoury.
Vin
de Table Les Raisins Confits X
– Vin de Paille is from Gamay dried on a bed of straw is from the 2005
and 2006 vintages. The grapes were loft dried from mid September and
pressed twice, the first time being over the New Year period and again at
the end of February. Intense and highly textured.
Vin
de Table Les Raisins Confits XL
– from equal proportions of Chardonnay and Gamay. It’s a more extreme
version of the above.
Vin
de Table Les Raisins Confit XXL
– is made solely from Chardonnay.
Vin de Table Dernière
Cueillette – another liquoreux
wine, but not tasted.
The Sauvat wines are competent rather than exciting,
with the best examples being the unoaked red wines, whilst the most
interesting wines from Michel Blot are his experimental sweet wine cuvées,
which whilst a novelty within the region are relatively undistinguished
when compared to sweet wines made elsewhere.
Annie Sauvat et Michel Blot
Le Bourg
Boudes
T: + 33 4 73 96 41 42
F: + 33 4 73 96 58 34
sauvat@terre-net.fr
www.sauvat-vins.com/weblog
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