Côtes
d'Auvergne
Eating, drinking and Sleeping
Wild flowers and the Puy-de-Dôme
Puy-de-Dôme
The Auvergne has long since tried to play down its reputation for a
region of poor food and hotels, but for anyone wishing to explore
the wines of the Côte d’Auvergne, the logical base would be
Clermont-Ferrand, although there is a dearth of decent individual hotels.
This is essentially a commercial centre rather than a leisure destination,
so my recommendation is to head for the hills and take advantage of the
hotels within any of the spa resorts on the edge of the Châine-des-Puys.
CLERMONT-FERRAND
One would
expect the home of Michelin to have a couple of starred restaurants, and
indeed there are now four, of which I have dined in one: Fleur de Sel.
Restaurant – Fleur de Sel
Emma et Patrice Eschalier
8 rue Abbé Girard
T: +33 4 73 90 30 59
Acknowledged in the 2009 Guide
Michelin as an 'up and coming restaurant', although Fleur de Sel was
established a decade ago. By the 2010 Guide it had been awarded a much
deserved One Star. It's run by Sussex born Emma and her chef-husband,
Patrice, whose father makes a little wine for family consumption on the
slopes above the city. Emma tells me it's not very good. The couple met on
the Île-de-Ré in the mid 1990s whilst Emma was doing a stage to
improve her business French. The menu here revolves around fish; not bad
for a city at the very heart of France. The food here is very good and my
recommendation is to allow Patrice to select your dinner for you. This
option is offered as a fixed price menu. There is a broad list with a few
local wines, although Emma is clearly not a fan of the local rosés.
Recommended, if a little expensive if one eats off the carte.
Closed Sunday and Monday.
(Last dined: 06/09)
Restaurant - Goûts et Couleurs
Vincent Dhumes
6 Place du Changil
Clermont-Ferrand
T: + 33 4 73 19 37 82
Situated in a rough looking part of the centre of town, close to the
(Last dined: 06/09)
Restaurant - Brasserie Danièle Bath
Place du Marché Saint Pierre
T: + 33 4 73 31 23 22
Situated within the main market building and lauded by Michelin,
although both the food and the decor could do with updating. Billed as a
traditional restaurant, their food in fact leans more to Catalonia. They
offer a range of wines by the glass. Pretty ordinary and doesn't offer
particularly good value.
(Last dined: 06/09)
The entries below come from the usually reliable book called Les zinzins
du zinc. They are all within Clermont-Ferrand, although I haven’t dined
in any of them.
7 Boulevard Léon-Malfreyt
Clermont-Ferrand
T: + 33 4 73 34 28 87
Owned by Gilles Lafaille, an ex petro-chemical
engineer. Open every evening except Sunday.
Lunches from Wednesday to Friday.
11 Rue Philippe-Marcombes
Clermont-Ferrand
T: + 33 4 73 91 21 99
David and Zoé Rosenplac. Open Monday to Saturday
from 10h00.
8 Rue de la Préfecture
Clermont-Ferrand
T: + 33 4 73 37 64 15
Kevin Quicke. Open Tuesday to Friday for lunch and
dinner and Saturday evening.
1 Place Philippe-Marcombes
Clermont-Ferrand
T: + 33 4 73 90 18 28
Open Monday to Saturday for lunch and dinner, except
Saturday lunch.
15 Rue des Chaussetiers
Clermont-Ferrand
T: + 33 4 73 14 23 92
9 Rue Nestor-Perret
Clermont-Ferrand
T: + 33 4 73 37 57 15
Châteldon
CHÂTELDON
Gîte - Les
Charmes
Mary Williamson
Châteldon
T: + 33 4 73 94 99 75
castel.16@orange.fr
www.castel16.com
Just a few kilometres south of Vichy, this quiet little village was once a
thriving village vigneron. Today, it is more famous for its
slightly sparkling mineral water, which can be found listed on all the
best tables in France. This chalet-like property looks down over the
village with its medieval castle.
Above Riom
RIOM
Restaurant -
Le Saint Amable
18 rue Saint Amable
Riom
T: + 33 4 73 63 01 47
A very modest restaurant on the main street running through the town,
sitting opposite the Basilica. Open from Tuesday to Saturday, they serve
traditional dishes, including truffades made from Saint-Nectaire.
There is a small selection of regional wines. Inexpensive.
(Last dined: 06/09)
Le
Flamboyant
21 bis, rue de l’Horage
Riom
T: 33 4 73 63 07 97
info@restaurant-le-flamboyant.com
www.restaurant-le-flamboyant.com
Restaurant
gastronomique.
11, avenue Commandant-Madeline
Riom
T: + 33 4 73 38 08 25
magnoliagastronomique@wanadoo.fr
www.lemagnolia.fr
A formal and expensive looking restaurant in a side
street in the town.
Châtel-Guyon
CHÂTEL-GUYON
This pretty
spa resort is a few kilometres west of the town of Riom and about a 30
minute drive into Clermont-Ferrand. It's well sited for visiting the
northern vineyards, the Châine-des-Puys
and a relaxing spot for those wishing to take the waters.
Hotel-Restaurant
- Splendid
5-7 rue Angleterre
Châtel-Guyon
T: + 33 4 73 86 04 80
F: + 33 4 73 86 15 76
contact@splendid-resort.com
www.splendid-resort.com
A resort hotel with its own spa centre and water fountains. Its
art-deco exterior dates it to the early part of the last century, about
the same time as most of its current residents were born. It's not without
charm and is situated in a lovely little valley that overlooks the spas
and is in easy walking distance for the rest of the town. Whist they do
have a restaurant, I haven't dined here; I wasn't taken by what was
offered on the menu. If you do plan to stay here, ensure you book a room
at the rear.
(Last stayed: 06/09)
Restaurant - La Papillote
11 Route de Volvic
Saint-Hippolyte
Châtel-Guyon
T: + 33 4 73 67 00 64
F: + 33 4 73 86 20 60
Saint-Hippolyte is a small village just outside Châtel-Guyon and is
about a five minute drive from the centre of town (or a 30 minute
energetic walk). It's a family run operation and is clearly popular with
locals, although the opening times (Thursday to Saturday and Sunday lunch)
makes one wonder on the viability of opening at all. The food is a bit
fussy, but competent with a good selection of local dishes and a very good
local cheeseboard. There is a reasonable wine list offering a limited
selection of local wines and a few good names from elsewhere in France.
(Last dined: 06/09)
Restaurant
- La Potée
34 rue Baraduc
Châtel-Guyon
T: + 33 4 73 86 06 60
On the main street, this busy little restaurant is full of character
and antiquities from the region. They cooking is simple and proudly Auvergate
serving local wines by the glass, pichet and bottle. Recommended
and inexpensive.
(Last dined: 06/09)
Montpeyroux
MONTPEYROUX
Restaurant -
La Vigne
Place de la Grande Charreyre
Monypeyroux
T: + 33 4 73 96 43 46
P: + 33 6 33 56 45 92
restaurant.lavigne@orange.fr
www.restaurant-lavigne.fr
Montpeyroux is an old village vigneron and one of The Most
Beautiful Villages in France. It's a pretty medieval fortified hamlet
built in the local arkose red granite stone. This pretty little restaurant
is at the heart of the village and offers local cuisine served on the
terrace during the summer.
Chambres
et tables d’Hôtes – La
Vigneronne
Frédéric et Dominique Delherbe
Montpeyroux
www.montpeyroux-lavigneronne.com
T: + 33 4 73 96 66 71
P: + 33 6 81 45 07 42
A pretty looking villa just inside the village walls.
BOUDES
Hotel-Restaurant
- Le Boudes la Vigne
Place de la Mairie
Boudes
T: + 33 4 73 96 55 66
F: + 33 4 73 96 55 55
Boudes is at the southern-most extreme of the wine region. It's a
pretty village and although I haven't eaten or stayed here, it looks like
an attractive place to spend a couple of days. It is situated in the heart
of the village and offers menus of regional fare.