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Guide
to the Loire regions
Côtes
d'Auvergne
Grower
Profiles
Benoît Montel
Fresh-faced Benoît Montel got the
wine bug early. His father, when he wasn’t working in the local
hospital, maintained a ‘weekend’ vineyard in Bourrassol, the most
renowned lieu-dit in Châteaugay,
whose slopes overlook the Michelin test circuit. A graduate of the Lycée Viticole in Beaune, by the age of 22 he had created his own
four hectare domaine in conjunction with Christophe Caillot, his
father-in-law. Two years later, he moved his cellar to an unsigned,
graffiti-covered warehouse which was previously used for repairing
commercial vehicles, on an industrial estate on the south side of Riom. He
opens his garage every Friday afternoon for his customers to visit, taste and
buy.
From ten hectares of vines (of which eight are rented, mostly from retired
vignerons), he manages to make
nine different wines. From 2007, there is a little white Vin de Pays, made
from half a hectare of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, grown at high
altitude on a slope west of the town of Volvic. A second white comes from
one hectare of barrel fermented Chardonnay, planted in Bourrassol which is
sold as Châteaugay and where Montel also sources the Gamay for his rosé.
That leaves six different reds; subtract two from the crus
of Madargues (2.5ha of Gamay) and Chanturgue (0.4ha of Gamay) leaves four
different cuvées from Châteaugay, including a 100% Pinot Noir (which
will be absorbed into the other wines as the legislation changes), a 100%
Gamay from Bourrassol, an old vine cuvée, raised in oak for nine months,
and finally, a generic Châteaugay rouge.
ontel is a clear innovator, although with so many different wines
produced from such a fractured number of parcels invariably means that the
overall potential is lost in all the distraction. A little consolidation
in the range wouldn’t go amiss. But these are still good wines, and
widely seen on the tables of the northern suburbs of Clermont-Ferrand and
Riom.
Benoît
Montel
ZI La Varenne
6 Rue Henri Goudier
Riom
T/F: + 33 4 73 64 96 14
P: + 33 6 74 50 00 24
Benoit-montel@orange.fr
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