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Guide
to the Loire regions
Côte
Roannaise
Grower
Profiles
Domaine
de la Rochette
The first mention of vines being planted on the slopes
behind the Château de la Rochette was in 1397, but it was Pascal and
Olivier Néron’s grandfather, Antoine, bought a 40 hectare plot and the
some old farm buildings from the Château owner in 1939. The Néron’s
themselves are an old Roannais family, with a winemaking tradition that
dates back to 1630. Cousin Claudy (see separate entry) makes wines just
half a kilometre down the hill. Three generations of Nérons have now been
at Domaine la Rochette; grandfather and father, also called Antoine,
worked the both the vines and tended the Charolais beef cattle. Antoine
junior died in 1979 and it was Pascal, one of his seven children, who was
to take control of the domaine. He was joined in the cellar in 1991 by
Olivier, whilst a third brother, Jean-Paul, is responsible for raising the
cattle in the barn next door.
The brothers work a total of 12 hectares of vines, split equally over two
parcels of land. Behind the property is the original 6 hectares of La
Rochette, planted with 40 to 60 year old Gamay Saint-Romain. The other
vineyard is two kilometres away at the point where Villemontais meets the
communes of Saint-Alban-les-Eaux and Lentigny. The vines here are all
trellised to Cordon Royat, including the old gobelet plantings which have
been somehow adapted. All the grapes are harvest by hand.
WINE
OVERVIEW:
The wines are produced in an impressive ancient wood
and red brick barn with a subterranean earth floor cellar cut out of the
granite. A total of six different wines are produced here in a normal
vintage; the range dictated by the age and location of the parcel along
with the specific winemaking method employed.
The majority of the reds undergo eight to ten days of maceration, prior to
fermentation in stainless steel and concrete tanks. Whilst carbonic
maceration is the main technique employed, there are variations of the
theme depending on the style desired. The wines are then all raised for
differing lengths of time in old foudres,
with the inevitable one cuvée raised in barrique.
The rosé makes up to 20% of the total production, and
this is produced from an equal blend of saignée
juice and by direct pressure. Of the four different reds, ‘Bératard’
takes its name from a lieu-dit
planted in 1985 on the low, clay dominated, slope on the communal border
between Villemontais, Lentigny and Saint-Alban. This is a lighter but more
mineral cuvee that is partly put through the magic thermovinification
machine and is designed for early drinking. ‘Relais du Chateau de la
Rochette’ comes from vines planted in 1997 on south facing slopes for
early drinking and is also designed to be drunk within 3 years of the
vintage. ‘Les Vieilles Vignes du Chateau’ is from 80 year old vines
with yields of around 35hl/ha, whilst ‘La Rochette, Fûte de Chêne’
is raised for four months in three year old burgundy barrels. The last two
wines follow a more traditional production method with approximately 50%
of bunches destalked. Finally, there is around 4,000 bottles a year of Vin
de Pays Chardonnay from vines that were planted in 1990.
Despite all this effort in producing a complex range of wines, a total of
4-% of their sales are as bag in box, and a total of 60% their entire
production is sold at the cellar door.
THE
WINES:
My last visit coincided with the release of the
particularly difficult 2007s, and the wines displayed the weakness of the
vintage; all were a bit grippy and stalky. Having tasted at the domaine in
2006, I am sure the brothers Néron are capable of better things, although
the style of their wines does err towards the firmer end of the spectrum.
Pascal et Olivier Néron
Domaine de la Rochette
La Rochette
Villemontais
T: + 33 4 77 63 10 62
P: + 33 6 72 70 79 29
P: + 33 6 75 87 69 41
F: + 33 4 77 63 35 54
Antoine.neron@wanadoo.fr
Antoine.neron@orange.fr
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