|
|
Guide
to the Loire regions
Côte
Roannaise
Grower
Profiles
Maurice
Piat et Fils
Set up on the slopes above the plain, La Chapelle can
probably claim to be situated in the most picturesque location in the
whole appellation. This traditional mas
has just two hectares of vines which lie on the slope at the rear of the
house. It has been in the same family since 1890, and it was Gérard
Piat’s grandfather who first established the vineyard in the lieu-dit
that lends its name to the domaine. Until the arrival of the Lapalue’s
who established their own vineyard a little further up the hill in the mid
1990s, the Piat’s were the only grower to exploit these slopes above
Saint-Jean.
The slight, shy and impish-looking Gérard is in the full-time employ of
the local municipality where he works as a gardener, as he can’t make a
living off just two hectares of vines. He succeeded his father, Maurice,
who first bottled wine under their own label in 1988, although he is now
in his 80s and long since retired.
The youngest vines here are ten years old and all trellised. The 60 to 80
year old vines are gobelet trained, and are used specifically for a
separate vieilles vignes cuvee.
Everything here is harvested by hand, although they look towards
harvesting the maximum possible yield for the appellation, at 55hl/ha.
Wine
Overview:
A traditional approach is followed in the cellar with Gérard
doing little to change the winemaking process of his father and presumably
his grandfather before him, crushing the grapes using an ancient basket
press. There are two red wines produced here and the vinification process
is essentially the same for both, the only difference being that the old
vine cuvee makes use of spontaneous yeasts. The cuvaison
lasts for just under a week, with Gérard conducting a pump-over twice a
day, and allows for the temperature to rise to 30˚centigrade for the
final 48 hours of the fermentation. In addition to the reds, twenty
percent of the production is rosé, produced by the saignée
method.
The Wines:
The attractive salmon pink Rosé 2007 was light, fresh
and well balanced, whilst the two reds conform to the local tradition to
produce one fruité and one corsé
wine. The 2007 ‘La Chapelle’ is light with plenty of yeasty,
bread-dough like aromas and flavours, whilst the ‘Vieilles Vignes’ is
more serious, structured and mineral even. This might be a marginal
domaine, but on the evidence of the current releases, the wines here are
very good and comparable to some of the lighter crus of Beaujolais. They are certainly a credit to the appellation.
Gérard Piat
La Chapelle
Saint-Jean Saint-Maurice
T: + 33 4 77 63 12 85
Back
to top
|