Michèle
Bazin de Jessey, Château des Vaults – Domaine du Closel
(1961)
Although
the name of the property is Château des Vaults (or even des Vaux or Vaulx),
the wines are better known as Domaine du Closel. Mentioned in historic
documents, the house is situated within the
The
property was eventually inherited by the Marquis de Las Cases, grandson of
Napoleon I's chamberlain and biographer, who in turn transferred it to
his eldest daughter, the Marquise de Las Cases. She went on to marry
Bernard de Closel in 1898. Closel himself was the Mayor of the village for
forty years and was instrumental in Savennières’ gaining its
appellation in 1952. His work
complete, he retired from his post in 1956. Childless, Madame Closel
passed the domaine to her niece, Michèle Bazin de Jessey in 1961, and it
is in honour of her late aunt and uncle that the domaine carries its more
recognised name.
Mme
de Jessey, an Angevine herself,
worked the land prior to receiving her inheritance, so the adaptation to
managing vineyards was an easy and enjoyable one. In 1990, she was elected
as the first lady president of any growers’ syndicat
in France, and her second term culminated in her signing off the appellation’s
revised December 1996 decree. Whilst Mme de Jessey still takes an active
interest, it is her daughter, the very personable Evelyne de
Jessey-Pontbriand, who is now responsible for the day to day running of
the domaine. Evelyne returned to Savennières in 2001 following a career
as a teacher in the United States
and Germany, thus perpetuating the tradition of passing the property down through the
maternal line.
Wine
Overview:
Under
Evelyne’s influence, there have been some significant developments in
both vineyard and cellar practices. Working closely with Rémi Poitevineau
in the vines, the most notable change is the conversion to organic farming
that will see them fully certified from the 2008 vintage. Before Evelyne
arrived, all wines were raised in tank and without recourse to malolactic
fermentation. More recently, there has been a change in the élevage,
with their Clos du Papillon now being fermented and aged in demi-muids and
second hand Corton-Charlemagne barrels bought from Bonneau du Martray.
There has also been a change in attitude towards the malolactic
fermentation, which in 2001 (Evelyne’s first year in the cellar)
happened spontaneously.
There
are a total of 16.9 hectares planted here, producing three separate
expressions of Savennières on a regular basis. ‘Le Clos du Papillon’,
from a 6 hectare holding, spends between 12 and 18 months in barrel,
producing around 15-20,000 bottles. The other two cuvées are based on the
names of specific parcels on the plateau of Savennières, although they
are used to express stylistic differences in the wines. ‘La Jalousie’
comes from more schistous parcels and is harvested just before the grapes
turn from yellow to brown with yields of around 20 hl/ha. This is raised
in tank with a partial malolactic fermentation happening spontaneously.
This is vinified dry and is bottled in July after the vintage. This is the
largest single cuvée produced at around 25,000 bottles. ‘Les Caillardières’
is harvested later and comes primarily off the later ripening sandier
soils. Again, the wine is raised in tank and left with 4-6 g/l of residual
sugar. This wine will not be bottled in either 2006 or 2007. There are
also occasional releases of moëlleux
when the conditions dictate: notably in 2003 in Le Clos du Papillon, and
in 2002, a cuvee released as ‘Les Coteaux’.
In
addition to the Savennières, there is some Cabernet Franc planted within
the appellation which, until 2005, went towards producing an
Anjou-Villages. There are two parcels of one hectare each here: one,
planted in 2000, is in ‘Clos Lavaux’, just across the road from the Château,
and a second called ‘Le Gaudrets’, was planted in 1948. These grapes
are now sold off to Ackermann in Saumur. The Cabernet Sauvignon parcel is
just below one hectare in size and was planted in 1975. This sits on the
plateau of Savennières between the Moulin de Gué and Le Clos du Papillon.
From 2006, it has been used to produce a Cabernet d’Anjou.
More recently, from the 2009 vintage, the Verdelho that once was 'lost' within the wines of the appellation has been isolated and harvested separately to produce a vin de table that goes under the name Eau de Pluie, an historic reference to the 'Rainwater' Madiera that was popular in America in the first half of the 19th Century.
The
Wines:
I
think there has been a significant improvement in quality here since 2002.
Prior to this, my memories of tasting the wines always left me with the
impression that they were a little too rustic in style. With the arrival
of Evelyne de Pontbriand and Bruno Perray in the cellar, there is clearly
a desire to move the domaine to another level, both with the commitment to
convert the land to organic farming methods and in allowing the wines to
evolve into something cleaner and with greater focus. This clearly places
Domaine du Closel as one of the leading producers of the appellation.
2009
'Eau de Pluie' Vin de France
Very floral nose and pretty crude and aromatic. Not unlike the aromas
associated with Viognier. The palate has a firm acidity and a yeasty
'natural wine' profile. It carries around 20g/l of residual sugar. (02/11)
2009
'La Jalousie'
Very pale. Light, primary Chenin nose with white flowers and mineral
behind. Good weight and structure on the front palate. Focused. The
flavour profile is distinctly 'biodynamic' with a sense of natural yeasts
playing a part here. It tastes like a 'natural' wine. Builds well to a
dry, persistent and mineral finish with a characteristic bitter twist.
This is approachable now but would be expected to improve. (10/10)
2008
'La Jalousie'
Broad, ripe and quite open nose. Round with some exotic notes. Some
cloves, with a mineral edge lurking below. Not obvious, but there are also
aromas of honeycomb and quince. Delicate. The palate is much more focused
than the nose suggests. Still taut and appears drier and more mineral than
the 2007, with the acidity running through the wine. Serious, with good
focus and length. Drinking now, but would be expected to evolve further.
(01/10)
2008
‘Les Caillardières’
Quiet and restrained nose, but attractive and delicate. It shows some
ripeness behind. Firm on entry but with some noticeable residual sugar.
Very good depth and concentration. Clean, earthy and mineral; a classic
style. Very good structure and length. It will be approachable on release,
but would benefit from a couple of years in bottle. Only 12hl/ha due to
the frost damage. (01/10)
2007
'La Jalousie'
Harvested during the last week of September and the first week of October.
The berries were yellow but not over ripe. The wine was raised for one
year in tank before bottling. Mid-depth yellow-gold appearance. Lovely
nose. Authentic; taut, smoky and very mineral. Well textured on entry with
flavours of apples. Very good focus and structure. Already open and
expressive but will age and evolve further. (01/10)
2007
'Clos du Papillon'
Very old vines. Harvested in three or four passages to achieve perfect
ripeness at picking, with about 5% botyrtis included in the bunches.
Raised for two years in 400 litre Allier and Vosges oak barrels.
Noticeable oak on the nose, but well integrated. Attractive and authentic.
Appears dry on entry but is very rich with the impression of oak and
botrytis. Powerful and concentrated and would certainly benefit with
keeping. Perisistent finish. Serious. (01/10)
2006
‘La Jalousie’
2006
'Clos du Papillon'
Broad, open and clean. Typical Savennières. Smoky with an underlying
schist-like minerality. This is relatively open but the on the evidence of
the nose this would benefit with more time. Broad on entry with very good
structure and a penetrating minerality. Taut and linear. Powerful and does
show its alcohol a little, although this is starting to drink well now; it
should evolve further. (10/10)
2005
‘La Jalousie’
Youthful
nose and still quite primary. A bit awkward and simple at this stage and
not showing a lot of character. This may evolve with time, but currently
lacks a sense of place. Approachable, but ideally give it some more time
in bottle to find itself. (02/08)
2005
‘Clos du Papillon’
Bright.
Mid-depth yellow/straw. Attractive, open nose. Rich and honeyed. Already
showing some complexity. Rich on entry with a broad structure. Builds well
with very good focus. The wood shows a little at this stage, but
harmonised by very fresh acidity. A touch phenolic and a bit savoury.
Approachable, but will age further. (02/08)
2004
‘Les Caillardières’
Bright.
Youthful pale straw. This is more old fashioned and classic Savennières
on the nose and palate. Very good focus to the acidity; racy and fresh.
Great structure and powerful. Very mineral with a pithy Chenin twist to
the finish. Persistent. Linear. Drinking now, but will be expected to age
another decade or so. Very good. (02/08)
2004
‘Clos du Papillon’
Bright.
Mid-depth yellow-gold. Broad but backward nose. Rich and linear, but
giving nothing much away at this stage. Dense, concentrated and more
serious on the palate. There is a hint of wood. Rounded with a lovely
texture. Very good structure and length. Approachable now, but would
benefit with a few more years in bottle. (02/08)
2003
‘Les Caillardières’
Bright.
Mid-full yellow/gold. Open and accessible nose. Quite smoky. Well textured
on entry with good richness and structure. This shows the heat of the
vintage a little. Drinking now, but could be expected to hold and evolve
further over the next few years. (02/08)
2003
‘Clos du Papillon – Cuvée Spéciale’
2002
'Clos du Papillon'
Very deep yellow-gold appearance. Broad and open, but showing distinct
signs of maturity. A little flat, dull and resinous on the nose. This is
much more advanced than one would expect of the vintage. Rich on entry.
Broad and open and in better condition than the nose suggests. Well
balanced. Builds well. Flavours of orange and orange peel. Good
concentration on the finish. Drinking now, but should hold, if not really
improve. (02/10)
2002
‘Les Coteaux’
First
release. From desiccated fruit with all rotten berries removed. Mid-depth,
orange bronze appearance. Faint caramel to the nose and palate. Lemon Crème
Brulée comes to mind. Zesty. The sweetness shows through, but the wine
retains lovely balance. Delicious now, but is capable of ageing and
evolving over many years. (02/08)
2001
'Clos du Papillon'
Pale appearance. Attractive, open and quite floral, showing white flowers.
Quite restrained still giving the impression it has more to offer. Complex
and attractive. Delicate and deft on entry. Well balanced with a chalky
texture. Builds well with a powerful, mineral finish. This is drinking
well now and has the potential to evolve a little more. (02/10)
1999
'Clos du Papillon'
Broad and expressive nose. Typical, if slightly dull and old fashioned.
There is a distinct schist-like minerality. Gentle and mid-weight on
entry. Well balanced, although the flavour profile remains a little
simple. Builds well and retains good structure with a pithy edge to the
finish; even a bit tannic and phenolic. Grippy. This should hold, but
probably won't improve. Good and authentic. (02/10)
1998
‘Les Caillardières’
Bright. Deep yellow-gold. Mature appearance. Old fashioned, tired and
rustic nose. Flat, with aromas of bruised apples. Stripped of fruit, with
just some faint quince and orange-peel behind. Delicate and faintly smoky.
Light and delicate on entry. Juicy, with good focused acidity. The rustic
nature continues on the palate, although the development is not advanced
as the nose suggests. Drinking now, but probably won't improve any
further. There are more bruised apple flavours to the finish with the
acidity carrying the wine. (04/09)
1998
'Clos du Papillon'
Mature nose. Distinctly advanced. Floral, flat and a bit flabby. It's an
old fashioned, rustic Savennières, although honest and authentic. There
are hints of rot - orange peel and resin. Light on entry, with decent
acidity, but more mature orange peel flavours. Chalky textured and falls a
bit short. Simple and needs drinking up, although it might hold on a few
more years. (02/10)
1997
'Clos du Papillon'
Light on the nose. A little bit earthy and grubby (two bottles tasted).
Minerality shows behind, but this is now at a tertiary stage and has lost
any sense of fruit. Flat and dull. Mature on entry. Floral, but also a bit
flat, lacking freshness and acidity. Fatiguing and shows its (14.8%)
alcohol. Pithy to the finish and falls a bit short. Dull. (02/10)
1996
‘Clos du Papillon’
Mature nose. Savoury, cheese-straw nose. This is looking very tired. Light
on entry. Broad but lacks any real definition. There is an underlying
power and minerality, but the flavour profile indicates this is overmature.
Falling apart. (02/10)
1995
'Clos du Papillon'
Deep orange-bronze. Very mature and oxidised in appearance. Orange peel on
the nose. This is over mature and tired. Fat and flabby, although retains
some acidity. It is still concentrated and pwerful but has lost its flesh.
Pithy and phenolic. Best drink up. Ordinary. (02/10)
1993
'Clos du Papillon'
Pale appearance. Straw-yellow. Mature but complex nose; old fashioned and
a little rustic. Schist and smoke. Floral too, with some white flower
aromas. The palate is surprisingly fresh. Mid-weight, with some fresh
acidity still present. There is a phenolic edge to the finish. This
retains some structure and integrity. It is still in good condition and
drinking well, although it would be best consumed now. (02/10)
1992
'Clos du Papillon'
Mid-depth yellow-gold. Savoury, saline nose that is now showing some signs
of maturity. Sweated onions? Light and elegant on entry with more flavours
of cooking onions on the palate. It retains its savoury and saline edge.
There is a line of linear acidity running through the wine which has
helped to preserve the wine. But this is starting to loose its fruit and
charm. Best drink up. (02/10)
1991
'Clos du Papillon'
Mid depth. Orange. Dull. Tired on the nose, with a savoury, maderised
character. Light on entry with tight and aggressive acidity. Lean and
drying out, having lost its core of fruit. The savoury flavours persist on
the palate. Falls short. Needs drinking. It retains some acidity, but the
wine is rustic and falling apart. (02/10)
1990
'Clos du Papillon'
Deep
appearance. Mid-full orange-bronze. Broad and ripe. Shows concentration.
This is still very precise and expressive on the nose. Delicate and
complex, restrained and refined. The style is still quite old fashioned
and traditional. Gentle on entry. Well balanced. Attractive with good
texture. Fresh and clean, with a nervous line of acidity running through
the wine. Powerful to finish, with a characteristic pithy and phenolic
edge. Authentic. Drinking now, but will keep and possibly still evolve
further. (02/10)
1990
‘Vieilles Vignes’
Polished,
mid depth. Yellow. Mature oxidative nose. Tertiary, mineral and austere.
Almost like a mature Semillon. Very little fruit and beginning to dry out.
Waxy textured with some honey. The acidity is a bit low. Rustic. Just
going over the plateau of maturity and needs drinking. (02/01)
1989
'Clos du Papillon'
Mid depth. Hints of orange. Mature, but gently complex nose. This appears
more advanced than the 1990, but is slightly more open and expressive, and
probably more complete. The palate appears fresh and retains good focus
and structure. Builds nicely. Elegant and understated. Authentic and
saintly pithy to the finish. There is a hint of reduction or flint along
with notes of citrus and honey. This is still in very good condition.
(02/10)
1989
‘Cuvée Madame’
Polished.
Mid-depth yellow with youthful green hints. Very attractive, open, rich
and complex nose. Smokey, terpine, mineral. Faintly rustic and old
fashioned in style. On the palate, it shows white flowers and marzipan.
This is gentle and mature but retains a good mineral expression. The riper
conditions of the vintage show through. This is something as a surprise.
Still in very good condition and there is no rush to drink this up.
(04/08)
1988
‘Clos du Papillon’
Pale appearance. This has barely evolved. There is a distinctly
reductive/gunflint nose which accounts for the light colour. Restrained
nose, but there is evidence of tropical notes behind: passion fruit. The
palate shows great freshness. Very elegant, gentle and mineral. This is
almost a Baumard style wine, given the vegetal, asparagus and pea-like
flavour profile. There is a lovely acid balance running through the wine.
The reductive qualoty has preserved this well, although it is unlikely to
improve further. It should hold. (02/10)
1983
Demi-Sec
Polished.
Yellow-green. Attractive, herbal. Very accessible nose. Smoky with obvious
residual sugar on the palate. Good weight and balance. Very persistent,
with juicy lime-citrus acidity. Still very fresh and youthful. Very long.
This is both rustic and classical. Drink now or hold. (06/04)
2005
Anjou
Rouge
100%
Cabernet Franc. Mid-depth. Full bright youthful red. Clean, light and
fresh on the nose with good Cabernet Franc fruit. Still very primary on
the palate, with flavours of red fruit and blood. Iron-like minerality.
Chalky textured. This is drinking well now, but could be expected to age
further. (02/08)
2003
Anjou-Villages
50%/50%
Cabernet Franc/Cabernet Sauvignon. Mid-full appearance. Deep youthful red.
Dense and backward on the nose. Quite high toned, showing a hint of
volatility. Softer on the palate, with good flesh and ripeness. Retains a
deftness and delicacy given the vintage. Still quite tight and tannic to
the finish. Approachable now, but will age well. (02/08)
Evelyne
de Ponbriand
Domaine
du Closel
T:
+33 2 41 72 81 00
02
41 72 86 00
evelyne@savennieres-closel.com
www.savennieres-closel.com