Monique
and Tessa Laroche, Domaine aux Moines (1981)
This
maison bourgeoise sits in the
middle of the Roche aux Moines vineyard at its highest point, dominating
all around it. The origins of the house date back to 1768 when it replaced
the former seigneurie of the
Saint Nicolas abbey in Angers. At the rear of the property is a formal garden with an old alley of
cypress trees that once led down to the monastery at the bottom of the
Coulée de Serrant, from which the domaine takes its name. From the late
1920s the domaine was owned for a few years by the Benz family (of
automobile fame), and subsequently by Roger Faure, an established
architect who bought and restored the house for his wife; she, although
less interested in the vines, went onto redesign the garden in an ornate
Italian style. Faure died fighting for
The
Laroches had relocated to Savennières with their three children in 1971.
Born on the Brittany-Normandy border, Monique Laroche is a qualified
pharmacist, but has also had the good fortune to have studied oenology at
university, whilst Monsieur Laroche owned his own notaire
practice in Angers. Initially they lived in a modest house called ‘Bellevue’ at the foot
of Roche aux Moines, which came complete with a vineyard; however this was
grubbed up and replanted in 1975 with Madame Laroche making her
first experimental wine in 1978. The family moved up the hill, buying
Domaine aux Moines three years later.
Although
wine was being produced here by Eustache Poilasne for Madame Faure, it was
on a relatively small scale with half of the production being from one
hectare of Cabernet. With the change of ownership came an intensive
replanting programme, started under the supervision of Poislane and
Monique Laroche herself. Only one hectare of old Chenin dating from 1921
existed, but by 1984 a further six hectares had been planted and a parcel
of Sauvignon Blanc had been removed. Today the estate has just over eight
hectares planted on the plateau of La Roche aux Moines on either side of
the house.
Tessa
Laroche, who was born the same year as the family relocated to
Savennières,
joined her mother in 1990 after her elder brother Frank decided to enter
the family notaire business.
Together they tend the vines and work the cellar, although one can’t
help feeling this is a relationship fraught with a degree of family
tension.
Wine
Overview:
The
wines are produced in what was formerly workers quarters constructed at
the end of the 19th century adjacent to the main house. The
density of the schist here means that a subterranean cellar here is
practically impossible. During harvest, the Laroches would normally expect
to make four or five passages
through the vines to ensure the grapes are picked at optimum maturity,
although there are exceptions. In 1992, they went through the vines a
total of seven times due to the poor conditions, whilst in 2003 there was
only need for a single passage. Generally yields average around 30hl/ha
although the past three vintages have been well below this, culminating in
the parsimonious 2007 vintage when only 17hl/ha was achieved. Along with
the Anjou-Villages, there is one release of Savennières each vintage,
although a moëlleux under the ‘Cuvée des Nonnes’ label can be found in
1997, 2002 and 2005, and certainly will be produced again in 2007. The
wine is generally fermented in tank, although old bordelais barrels were
used here until 2005; in 2007 some 400 litre casks were introduced simply
to cope with the small harvest, whilst the 2006 vintage saw no wood at
all. The wines are fermented using indigenous yeasts with the second
fermentation being avoided. Bottling typically takes place at the end of
July. A second label, used primarily for the grande
surface in
The
Wines:
Domaine
aux Moines has access to some of the greatest terroir in the appellation,
but as the tasting notes below suggest, the quality of the wines over the
past twenty odd years has been pretty inconsistent. The style remains old
fashioned, with production procedures changing little since Mme. Laroche
took control in the early 1980s. The wines remain quite earthy and rustic.
Occasionally, a stand out example emerges, often from the most unlikely of
vintages. However, the wines are true to their origin and I believe there
is serious intent from Tessa Laroche to build on the quality and she
appears to have both the knowledge and understanding to do this. The
vineyards, which are moving closer towards organic status, are both mature
and in excellent health, so let’s hope that quality and consistency can
be improved upon in the coming vintages.
2009
Savennières – Roche aux Moines
Very attractive nose even if it is a little high-toned. Authentic and
pretty with excellent focus and weight. Great balance with freshness,
focus and elegance. It doesn't show it's (14.5%) alcohol. Approachable now
but will undoubtably keep. Lovely. A contender for being the wine of the
vintage. (02/11)
2008
Savennières – Roche aux Moines
2006
Savennières – Roche aux Moines
2005
Savennières – Roche aux Moines
Very
pale appearance (a function of water stress, apparently). Forward and
quite forward nose. Shows ripeness and weight on entry but lacks a little
structure. This is more like the old, rustic style of Domaine aux Moines.
Advanced, floral, white flower flavours and a touch phenolic on the
finish. This is already showing maturity and I am unsure it will make old
bones. (02/08)
2004
Savennières – Roche aux Moines
Bright.
Mid-pale yellow/gold. Slightly rustic, but mineral nose. Mid weight
palate, but a touch hollow. Delicate style but falls a little short on the
finish. This is unlikely to age for any great length of time. (02/08)
2003
Savennières – Roche aux Moines
Soft,
gentle, open and attractive nose. There is an impression of wood here. Mid
weight entry. Obvious ripeness, but doesn’t show its (15%) alcohol.
Excellent texture. This holds a good balance between a traditional and
more modern style, but may also be just an expression of the vintage.
Broad flavour profile. A bit low in acidity, but still balanced. A good
effort in a hot year. Drinking now, but will develop further. (02/08)
2002
Savennières – Roche aux Moines
2002
Savennières – Roche aux Moines ‘Cuvée des Nonnes’ Moëlleux
Polished.
Mid-full yellow/gold. The nose is still quite restrained, but the palate
is lovely. Explosive passillerage like flavours with tropical fruits,
apples pears and quince. Rich and ripe, but excellent balance and not
overtly sweet. Very good minerality behind. This is still youthful and
should evolve further. (04/08)
2001
Savennières – Roche aux Moines
I have two conflicting notes for this wine - tasted within 14 months of
each other. Possibly different bottlings or tanks?
Deep,
botrytised appearance. Orange/bronze. Mature, oxidised (or oxidative)
character on both nose and palate with intensity derived from the
botrytised berries. Very rustic and old fashioned. The acidity is little
unknit on the finish. This is typical of the vintage. Drinking now, but
should age, although the unusual flavour profile makes it a wine for
purists only. (02/08)
Polished. Relatively pale for the vintage with green hints. Restrained nose. Delicate, with an attractive stony edge. Opens nicely in the glass. Smoky with hints of coconut. Mineral with no real signs of oxidation or botrytis. Bone dry on entry. Taut, lean and very mineral. Very good focus. Pithy and persistent finish. Authentic. Drinking now, but the very firm acidity should help to conserve this for many more years. (04/09)
2000
Savennières – Roche aux Moines
Mid-full,
yellow. Open and attractive nose, showing proper authenticity of both
variety and appellation. A touch waxy with yellow flowers and acacia.
Distinctly rustic and displays the hallmarks of the domaine. Mid weight on
entry. Structurally very good with a nice thread of minerality running
through the wine. Flavours of lanolin and wax with some melon. Good
balance and length. This is drinking well now and should continue to
evolve for a few more years. Good. (07/08)
1999
Savennières – Roche aux Moines
Deep
appearance. Floral, white flower and smoky nose. A little dilute and old
fashioned on the palate. Rustic. Drinking well now. Unlikely to improve
much more. Drink now. (02/08)
1998
Savennières – Roche aux Moines
Deep
appearance. Orange/gold. Looks like a botrytis affected year. It is
certainly mature in appearance. Broad nose. Floral nose with honey and
acacia. Mature, but not tired. Very open and attractive. Rich but
delicate. Ripe on entry with good texture. Mature flavours with some
hazelnut. Well balanced, Reigned in acidity. Silky. Good weight and
length. Drinking now. Should hold, but unlikely to improve. (02/08)
1997
Savennières – Roche aux Moines
1997
Savennières – Roche aux
Moines ‘Cuvée des Nonnes’ Moëlleux
1996
Savennières – Roche aux Moines
Deep
yellow gold. Botrytis? Delicate but advanced nose. Shows some sulphur.
Autolytic flavours – hazelnuts. No sign of any botrytis on the nose;
more toffee apple. Clumsy. The palate is less advanced, but shows some
terpine elements and flavours of bruised oranges. Very juicy acidity with
helps carry the wine. The wine is a bit shallow and dilute and lacks real
class. Rustic. The alcohol shows on the finish. Drink up. (04/06)
1995
Savennières – Roche aux Moines
Polished.
Mid-depth yellow-bronze appearance. Mid depth and delicate nose. Broad and
showing some ripeness. An authentic old fashioned example. Mineral on
entry with some ripeness and tropical hints. Quite taut, but builds well
to a very concentrated, powerful, mineral finish. Dry and austere, but
offers a true sense of place. This is drinking well now and should hold a
few more years, but I can’t see it improving. (04/08)
1994
Savennières – Roche aux Moines
Broad,
but muted nose. Very dry and mineral style and despite its age is still
quite austere. Well textured, but finishes a little short. Pithy, bitter-Chenin
finish. Drink now. Unlikely to improve. (02/08)
1993
Savennières – Roche aux Moines
Polished.
Yellow/bronze. Old fashioned, oxidative nose showing oranges and barley
sugar. Smokey and savoury with the aroma of cloves. Very rustic. Bone dry
on entry. Very lean, austere and bitter on the finish. Still drinkable but
lacks any real pleasure. Not unlike the character of the 2001 vintage
within the appellation as a whole. (04/08)
1992
Savennières – Roche aux Moines
Mid
depth. Yellow/gold. Full, open, smoky, oxidative nose. Complex and mature.
Acacia, white flowers and terpines. Rich palate texture. Good balance and
structure. Very good acidity which helps reinforce the acidity. Mineral,
stony edge. Very old fashioned style, but true and honest. Very attractive
for a difficult vintage. Good structure and length. This is drinking now,
but will continue to hold. An interesting wine but for connoisseurs of
Savennières only. (02/08)
1991
Savennières – Roche aux Moines
Bright.
Yellow-bronze. Light and delicate on the nose with some white flowers and
dried fruit. Mature nose of terpine and marzipan. Falls short on the
finish. Quite simple and monotone, although retains
a hint of quince and some minerality to the finish. This is just
hanging on and won’t improve any further. Drink up. (04/08)
1990
Savennières – Roche aux Moines
1989
Savennières – Roche aux Moines
Very
deep, mature orange-brown appearance. Sadly tired and oxidised nose with a
savoury, vegetal, onion-like nose. Dried out and past its best. (04/08)
1969
Savennières – Roche aux Moines
This
obviously predates the Laroche era. Polished orange-bronze appearance.
Quiet nose. Quite savoury – cheesy, like an inexpensive Madeira. Coconut shows through. Bone dry but rich on the palate. Intense, builds
well. There is a salty/manzanilla tang here. Very firm acidity to finish.
Drinking now, but probably will keep. (06/04)
2006
Anjou-Villages
Monique
Laroche
Domaine
aux Moines
T:
+33 2 41 72 21 33
F:
+33 2 41 72 86 55
tessalaroche@wanadoo.fr
www.domaine-aux-moines.com